Getting there

US Airways and American Airlines both fly nonstop between Philadelphia and St. Louis; a recent check found round-trip fares on either airline as low as $165 (subject to change). It's about a 900-mile drive each way via Interstate highways, primarily I-70.

Getting around

While some St. Louis attractions (including Busch Stadium, the Gateway Arch, and the Mississippi) are within walking distance of most downtown hotels, some of the city's best stuff is in the neighborhoods. The limited, but pleasant, light-rail MetroLink ($2.75) will get you to some and also connects to the airport; others will require a taxi or car. A taxi from downtown to Forest Park (zoo, museums) or the Hill (Italian restaurants) will run about $15 to $20.

Staying there

Many of the usual hotel chains are represented downtown, though in recent years there has been some label-swapping. A sampling:

Three within steps of Busch Stadium and the Arch are especially recommendable: The Hilton St. Louis Downtown (formerly the Marriott; doubles from $159; 1-800-445-8667; www1.hilton.com); the Westin St. Louis (from $229; 1-866-716-8137; www.starwoodhotels.com); and a solid bargain, the Drury Plaza at the Arch (from $105; 1-800-378-7946; www.druryhotels.com). Big conventions especially love the nearby Hyatt Regency St. Louis Riverfront (ex-Adams Mark; from $146; 1-888-964-9288; www.stlouisriverfront.hyatt.com ). Within walking distance and offering value-luxury (but linked to a casino, which may or may not be to your taste): a new Four Seasons (from $195; 1-800-819-5053; www.fourseasons.com/stlouis). The very nice Renaissance St. Louis Grand (from $159; 888-236-2427; www.marriott.com) is closer to the convention center than to the Arch, but if the price is right, the few extra blocks will melt away. Note: Two veterans, the Marriott Union Station (formerly a Hyatt) and the historic Wyndham Mayfair, are planning major renovations; check for updates.

And a couple of notables away from the center and worth considering: The again-elegant Chase Park Plaza, convenient to Forest Park and the Central West End buzz (from $189; 1-877-587-2427; www.chaseparkplaza.com); and the stylish Moonrise, in the Delmar Loop scene (from $159; 877-872-1122; www.moonrisehotel.com)

Dining there

St. Louis is a very good restaurant town. If the visit is short, downtown options are adequate - but much of the interesting dining is away from the center in neighborhoods such as the Central West End, the Hill, and Lafayette Square.

Places we know and like: Charlie Gitto's downtown pasta house (207 N. 6th St., 314-436-2828; there's a namesake on the Hill) is a longtime favorite for casual Italian. More formal, Tony's (410 Market St., 314-231-7007) still sets the bar in the city for splurges and marriage proposals. The trendy loft crowd is drawn to Mosaic's trendy fusion plates (1001 Washington Ave., 314-621-6001). Hard to pick a favorite on the Hill, but here are three: The dressy Dominic's (5101 Wilson Ave., 314-771-1632) never fails; the bocconcini alla Tony at Gian-Tony's (5356 Daggett Ave.; 314-772-4893) is a worthy diet-blaster; and locals I trust swear by Cunetto's House of Pasta (5453 Magnolia Ave., 314-781-1135). Near the Hill and always full of hungry regulars, Trattoria Marcella (3600 Watson Rd., 314-352-7706) will seduce you with its impossibly tender fried calamari and dreamy ravioli. Amid the Thai places in Grand South Grand (near St. Louis U.), seek out an Afghan storefront called Sameem (3191 S. Grand Blvd.; 314 664-3940) and try the pakowras, for starters. Picking one on the Central West End is a challenge - you can merrily graze the Euclid-Laclede corner cluster, for example - but our current fave (if you can find it) is contemporary Terrene, 33 N. Sarah St., 314-535-5100. Around Lafayette Square is lively, lofty 1111 Mississippi (1111 Mississippi Ave., 314-241-9999). We couldn't get there, but credible critics adore Niche (1831 Sidney St., 314-773-7755) - which serves its pork loin with (ready?) scrapple! And an obligatory mention for dessert or an anytime self-indulgence: Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, a true icon (6726 Chippewa St., 314-481-2652). Yes, it's that good.

Fair St. Louis

Friday, July 3 (all shows free): Magnolia Summer, 6 p.m.; Counting Crows, 8 p.m. Fireworks.

Saturday, July Fourth (all shows free): Nat & Alex Wolff, 1 p.m.; Dueling Pianos, 2:30 p.m.; the Feed, 3:30 p.m.; Jon Hardy and the Public, 4:30 p.m.; the Incurables, 5:30 p.m.; Green River Ordinance, 6:45 p.m.; Train, 8 p.m. Fireworks.

Information

St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission, 1-800-916-8938; www.explorestlouis.com. For specific information on the Fourth of July and riverfront events: www.celebratestlouis.org

- Alan Solomon