One lifelong Minneapolitan once quipped about St. Paul, "I haven't been there in decades; why bother?" A St. Paulite I know derides Minneapolis' "sprawl."

Residents of each believe their city to be vastly superior, embracing the right frame of mind and promoting the right kind of community (similar to the way Republicans and Democrats view the opposing party, I suppose). And - in the case of the Twin Cities, anyway - each is right in its own way. That means a visit to the Twin Cities is as rewarding as, say, nominating your favorite candidate to be the next president of the United States.

The common (and somewhat accurate) stereotype: St. Paul, the city to the east of the Mississippi River, honors its history; Minneapolis, on the west, paves over its past. Translation: St. Paul enchants with historic buildings and quaint neighborhoods; Minneapolis enthralls with flashy, modern architecture and bustling nightlife.

St. Paulites will be quick to point out that their city is the one hosting the convention. True, technically, since the venue, the Xcel Energy Center, is in the heart of downtown. But the estimated 45,000 souls traveling to the Twin Cities for the convention will sleep in hotel rooms throughout the metro area. So, what to do when you're not sleeping - or rallying to Sen. John McCain?

Let's start with a quick tour of highlights in St. Paul, since that's where conventioneers will be spending their days, if not their nights.

In the wee hours, Mickey's Diner makes a great pit stop. Housed in an old railroad car near the Xcel, the classic greasy spoon delivers crisp hash browns or hamburgers 24 hours a day. Another downtown option, a favorite of polished politicos, is the St. Paul Grill, with white tablecloths, leather booths, and hearty slabs of steak.

But if you stay downtown, you'll miss the best of St. Paul: its neighborhoods. Among the most famous, and oldest, is Cathedral Hill (you'll know it by the copper-domed Cathedral of St. Paul looming over the city). From there, you can stroll Summit Avenue, a wide boulevard lined with mansions that date to the late 1800s, none more striking than the James J. Hill House. That red sandstone behemoth, built with the proceeds of the Great Northern Railway, is open for tours daily.

Those hungry from walking will want to hop over to Grand Avenue, which runs parallel to Summit, for a stop at Cafe Latte, known for its decadent desserts. My favorite: turtle cake, a concoction of chocolate cake, caramel and pecans. But don't overlook the cafe's salads. You'll need the energy to shop the sharply stocked boutiques, which will come in handy if you're lacking the perfect party dress for the Republican Party's big party.

For history buffs, Fort Snelling, an 1820s military outpost at the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota Rivers, is worth a visit. It was built to protect the area from Canadian and British encroachment. On September and October weekends (daily during the summer), costumed guides make stew over open fires, play fifes, and practice military drill and weapons firings.

Just across the Mississippi from Fort Snelling, Minneapolis awaits.

The crown jewel of the city is the Guthrie Theater. The midnight-blue minimalist beauty puts on a good show even for visitors not holding a ticket to one of the three stages inside. Among the highlights: blue and yellow windows that neatly frame its neighbors - mostly old mill buildings - on the riverfront, and a vertigo-inducing, cantilevered walkway that thrusts 178 feet toward the Mississippi.

The Walker Art Center, on the other side of downtown, shines pretty brightly, too. A 2005 redesign left that modern art museum sided in brushed aluminum. Through Sept. 7, visitors can putt in the glow of its refracted light on an artist-designed miniature golf course. One hole begins with putters pedaling an exercise bike and dropping their ball down a chute that sends it to the bike's wheel, which then whips the ball into a pinball-like platform. Levers on the bike's handlebars control the flippers. That's art at its most entertaining.

For a look at Minneapolis' riverfront, which the Guthrie helped revive, you can take a Segway tour that hugs the river. But the unique perspective comes from getting on the river itself. The Minneapolis Queen offers narrated rides through a lock and dam, and it passes the work being done on the still-closed I-35W bridge, which collapsed last summer, killing 13 people. All in all, the 125-passenger paddlewheeler provides a nice way to sample the city.

To sample local specialties such as deep-fried cheese curds and walleye, Minnesota's state fish, head to the Minnesota State Fair before the convention (it runs through Labor Day). The fair cranks out its share of calories and overstimulated kids (not to mention overwhelmed adults), but you must go. Where else can you see the bust of a dairy princess, dubbed Princess Kay of the Milky Way, carved out of a 90-pound block of butter?

And what with the birthing barn (just what you might think) and farmers in overalls, the fair is pure Minnesota. And pure Americana, too; just the thing to get you in the mood for the true main event: the convention.

Tale of the Twin Cities

St. Paul will host the 2008 Republican National Convention on Sept. 1-4 at the Xcel Energy Center, Kellogg Boulevard and West Seventh Street (www.xcelenergycenter.com). Whether you go to cast a ballot or after the politicos have left, here are some places to see:

St. Paul

The James J. Hill House, built with railroad money, provides a look at life during the Gilded Age. (651-297-2555; www.mnhs.org/places/sites/jjhh).

The 1820s military outpost known as Fort Snelling offers a fascinating historical experience and pretty parklands. (612-726-1171; www.mnhs.org/places/sites/hfs).

The Minnesota State Fair, dubbed "the great Minnesota Get-Together," is one subject St. Paulites and Minneapolitans agree in approving (651-288-4400; www.mnstatefair.org).

When you're not dining on fair food, check out Mickey's Diner, near the Xcel Energy Center (651-222-5633).

Downtown, you'll also find the upscale St. Paul Grill (651-224-7455; www.stpaulgrill.com).

In the neighborhoods for which St. Paul is cherished, check out Cafe Latte (651-224-5687; www.cafelatte.com) or one of the best burger joints going, the Nook (651-698-4347).

Minneapolis

The $125 million Guthrie Theater opens at 8 a.m. daily to anyone wanting to take a look. The hottest ticket going is for Little House on the Prairie, the musical. Melissa Gilbert, who played Laura in the television series, plays Ma in the musical (612-377-2224; www.guthrietheater.org).

The Walker Art Center offers artist-designed miniature golf Wednesdays through Sundays until Sept. 7. Across the street, wander the impressive sculpture garden or, inside, check out the Richard Prince show (612-375-7600; www.walkerart.org).

Scoot around the revitalized riverfront and learn about the area's history, from Indian settlements to beer brewing, on a Segway (952-888-9200; www.humanonastick.com).

A ride on the paddleboat Minneapolis Queen includes a pass through a lock and dam and a view of the work to rebuild the collapsed I-35W bridge (952-474-8058; www.twincitiescruises.com).

You may be tempted to dine at flashy restaurants overseen by big-name chefs: 2021 is a Wolfgang Puck modern Asian wonder at the Walker Art Center (612-253-3410; www.wolfgangpuck.com), and Chambers Kitchen, in the posh Chambers Hotel, carries the Jean-Georges Vongerichten name (612-767-6999; www.chambersminneapolis.com). But I suggest you opt for restaurants with local chefs who make the most of local ingredients. Among the best are Spoonriver, next to the Guthrie (612-436-2236; www.spoonriverrestaurant.com), and La Belle Vie, across from the Walker (612-874-6440; www.labellevie.us).

More information

Saint Paul Convention and Visitors Authority

1-800-627-6101
www.stpaulcvb.org

Meet Minneapolis

1-888-676-6757
www.minneapolis.org/