Neighborhood: Mount Airy
Parking: Street parking and free public lot behind restaurant.
Handicap access: Wheelchair accessible.
Handicap access: Wheelchair accessible.
Related reviews:
- Cop shot, friend killed in robbery try
A wine thief is a glorified straw, a long glass siphon used to steal sips of wine from its aging barrel. And when Chris Simpson and his wife, Sophie, first came across such a device at a winery in Virginia, they were struck by what the samples it drew revealed about the virtues of a little time.
» Read more
Cuisine type: American
Meals Served:
Brunch
Dinner
Style:
Mount Airy's oft-frustrated quest to land a quality neighborhood restaurant has gotten a moderate boost from this comfort-food bistro and wine bar. There are still plenty of rough edges and inconsistencies, from cooking details to slow service. But there are also more than enough nice flavors, good vibes, and wine values to mark this reasonably priced newcomer down as a potential local favorite headed in the right direction.
Specialties:
"Thief Roll"; halibut ceviche; mussels in Thai curry; sausage plate; fried chicken; hanger steak; grilled tuna; cioppino; buffalo meat loaf; pecan pie; pumpkin bread pudding.
Alcohol:
For a wine-centric restaurant, the international list is relatively small. But the focus on wines with both interest and affordability (only $15-a-bottle markups, carafes, half-carafes, and glasses on most selections) is well-suited for a neighborhood bistro. Try a glass of crisp Esperanza verdejo ($8), thyme-scented Provençale rosé ($7.50), spicy Rosenblum zin ($6), or California syrah from Truchard ($6.50). There's a small but worthy collection of higher-end bottles. If only the staff were better versed on the selections, and the stemless glasses weren't so clunky.
Weekend noise:
Judging from the 93-decibel roar, the sound-buffering panels aren't doing a good enough job. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Reservations: Recommended
Prices:
$15 to $20
Good food, good wine and good friends <- that should be the Wine Thief's subtitle.