Izakaya
The Borgata
One Borgata Way
Atlantic City , NJ 08401
1-866-692-6742
Neighborhood: Atlantic City
Parking: Valet or self-parking at casino both cost $5.
Handicap access: Wheelchair accessible.
Handicap access: Wheelchair accessible.
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A former Stephen Starr hand makes a smashing debut with the new Japanese gastropub at Atlantic City's Borgata.
Craig LaBan: Savvy Phila-vores might want to pay attention to Atlantic City's Izakaya. The sweet smell of hickory and cherry wood roasting miso-glazed skewers of lobster and lamb chops on the robatayaki grill drew me in, and never quite let go.
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Cuisine type: Japanese; Pub
Meals Served:
Dinner
Late Night
Style:
This sultry take on the Japanese pub is a sake-splashed coming out for rising star, Michael Schulson, an ex-Starr chef who opened Pod and Manhattan's Buddakan. The moodily dark room, a multi-million dollar remake of the Borgata's Suilan, has a casual feel, but the kitchen delivers high-style takes on Japanese small-plates, from miso-glazed lobster skewers roasted over the wood-fired robatayaki grill, to stellar sushi, spicy tuna crackers, decadent kobe steaks, and numerous sakes by the glass.
Specialties:
Sushi: spicy tuna cracker; crispy lobster roll; yellowtail-jalapeno roll; giant clam; tai snapper, scallop. Kinki chicken wings; white miso lobster broth; tuna tartar; robatayaki (lobster; lamb; mushrooms; shrimp; sage chicken); BLT; torikatsu; kobe hanger; whole flounder; black cod; uni risotto; kobe beef fried rice; kabocha cheesecake; tempura split.
Alcohol:
Extensive selection of good cold sakes by the carafe (Living Jewel, $10) or bottle (Root of Innocence, $41; Wandering Poet, $34) compliment a small list of good Japanese beers (Hitichino Nest), and the Borgata's deep wine list. Tea service is also serious.
Weekend noise:
The cavernous space echoes to 86 decibels (with pulsing house music), but ample table spacing makes conversation reasonable. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Dinner Sunday through Tuesday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until midnight. Closed Wednesday and Thursday.
Prices:
$25 and up
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