8705 Germantown Ave.
Top of the Hill
Philadelphia , PA
Free lot in rear.
Cuisine type: American; Southern
Brunch - Sun.
Dinner - Tue., Wed., Thu., Fri., Sat., Sun.
Well-traveled chef Al Paris (Rococo, Mantra, Zanzibar Blue) has landed a promising new home in this ambitious BYOB at the top of Chestnut Hill, where he draws inspiration from regional American traditions for modern dishes that overflow with seasonality. The dishes sometimes get too cluttered with odd combinations, and the service can be awkwardly stiff. But Heirloom is nonetheless one of the best fine-dining additions to this neighborhood in a long time.
Crab cake and shrimp gumbo; crab and shrimp chop salad; split pea soup with Benton bacon and smoked chicken; pastrami-cured salmon; duck appetizer with sunchoke panna cotta; shrimp and scallop “purloo”; halibut with peas in saffron broth; rack of lamb with fava bean pancake; venison with huckleberries; apple pie doughnut. Entrees: $17 to $29.
It's BYOB. Stick with the menu’s American theme and go domestic. Russian River pinot noir is a nice, flexible choice for this food. Try a bright sauvignon blanc to go with the spring flavors. (A state wine store is located next door.)
Hard surfaces and tight quarters can hit a very noisy 92 decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Dinner Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday brunch, 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m