Kraftwork crafts fine eating

With all the hype of Top Chefs, Iron Chefs and Star Chefs, it's easy to lose sight of the fact that most chefs are journeymen. They are tasked with producing consistent dishes that fit the philosophy of the restaurant.

A nuts-and-bolts job, if you will.

At Kraftwork in Fishtown, Adam Ritter, operating manager, and Chef Michael Thomas pay homage to both work and craft.

The philosophy of Kraftwork is tangible from the moment you tug on the over-sized bolt that serves as a door handle to tiny details such as a server fabricating a sippy cup out of a cardboard container for a thirsty toddler.

Yes, this a bar that you can take your FWT (friends with toddler) to in the early evening and not get an evil look from the servers.

The center bar and the communal tables were designed to be social and encourage the sharing of food and conversation.

There's an authenticity to Andrew Jevremovic's design using augers, wrenches and saws for function as well as works of art. That feeling is due, in large measure, to the material from Fazzio Steelworks, also owned by members of the restaurant's owners group.

The homage to craftsmanship continues through the bar selections and menu. Except for cheese and a few charcuterie items, everything is made in-house by Thomas and his crew.

The Crispy Pork Croquettes ($8) were one of my favorites even before I discovered that this is Thomas' head cheese made marketable by breading, frying and giving it a new name along with tangy pickled red onions, honey mustard and parsley caper salad.

An appetizer that was especially favored by a taster were the Ricotta Dumplings ($8). The slight acidity of the accompanying red pepper sauce balanced well with both the creamy, light texture of the dumpling and its hint of nutmeg.

One of the daily specials that impressed were the Mushrooms and Poached Eggs on toast-points.

In my mind, you can judge the skill of a chef by merely asking him to roast chicken and poach an egg.

Here, a perfect yolk oozed into earthy mushrooms with a faint aroma of truffle oil and the toast crisps were waiting to sop it all up.

The Burger ($11) and all the sandwiches were made with an oversized brioche roll. The meat is ground in-house and you have your choice of a Grafton two-year cheddar or Point Reyes Blue. If that's not enough enhancement, you can also choose caramelized onions or a bacon onion jam. It's a burger built to satisfy.

The Short Rib Sandwich ($11) boasted a rich mixture of roasted poblano crème and pepper jack cheese and crispy fried onions offered a contrasting texture.

It's a three-day affair to assemble that begins by marinating the ribs in red wine, carrots, onion and celery followed by a slow braise. The final day it rests in the braising liquid to soak up even more flavor. A sluice of sambal sauce cuts the richness with a hint of spice.

What is quickly becoming the signature item of Kraftwork is the Beer Can Chicken Sandwich ($11). A mound of moist chicken with the slightest sweet yeasty aroma was combined with fried long hot peppers and onions and sharp provolone. A red cabbage and apple slaw added the perfect accent of vinegar to this satisfying mixture.

My tasters and I found the BL Trout ($11) an interesting combination. One comment was that the bacon, fish and apples were reminiscent of a hearty Norwegian herring and apple salad. The vinegar fries were stellar and pulled it all together with a nod to that English working-class favorite, fish and chips.

Ritter handpicks the beers and rotates 25 drafts so that there is something to satisfy every palate, including cider for gluten-free or a simple Pabst for the suds lover. Just managing the walk-in must require the speed and organization of a NASCAR pit crew.

He works in tandem with Thomas to pair the beer with the food. You might find a special with a featured beer such as a recent dish of skirt steak in a sauce with a splash of Allagash.

Despite the beer focus there is a small, food-friendly and well-priced wine list with some exciting selections from lesser-known regions and producers - no generic chards and merlots. You'll also find well-executed classic cocktails and inventive twists.

There's a simple dessert menu with a basic Crème Brulé ($5), Key Lime Tart ($6) and a Chocolate Terrine with mixed berry coulis, salted walnut brittle ($7).

Although it has barely a few months under its belt, Kraftwork's production line shows a long-held truism - hard work, attention to detail and a devotion to one's trade has its own brand of celebrity.