A sprinkling of alternative sweeteners

What's more, sugar is associated culturally with comfort, love, and innocence, and as such is one of the last socially acceptable vices. And as a term of endearment, "stevia-pie" just doesn't have the same ring.

Still, there are good reasons to explore the world of alternative and natural sweeteners. And sales figures show we are doing just that.

Sales of alternative sweeteners are at $1.1 billion, according to a May report from the Ohio-based market research firm Freedonia Group. And demand is projected to grow 3.4 percent annually through 2013, the report shows.

We're using more alternatives because we know the health risks posed by refined sugar: raised insulin levels, weight gain, diabetes, tooth decay, increased triglyceride levels, premature aging, and more.

"I noticed for myself that I was really sensitive to sugar, just as some people are sensitive to caffeine," says Allison Lubert, a nutritional counselor and co-owner of Sweet Freedom, a sugar- and allergen-free bakery due to open this month on South Street.

"My heart would race and I would be completely depleted of energy after I ate it. The more I ate it, the more I would crave it. As soon as I cut out sugar, I had more energy, my mood was more stable, and I was able to keep my weight at a stable level."

Even as we recognize the potential problems that are linked to sugar as well as processed and artificial sweeteners, our cravings for sweet foods seem physiologically tattooed after generations of eating them. And those cravings are not easily diminished.

For this reason, natural alternative sweeteners, once sold and consumed only in health-food circles, are catching on with the general public. The calorie-free herbal sweetener stevia, for one, was approved by the Food and Drug Administration in 2008. Analysts at Mintel International predict that the stevia market could exceed $2 billion by 2011.

Agave nectar, the processed sap of the agave plant, has also taken hold in many households and in packaged products including energy bars, ketchup, soda, and granola. Other natural sweeteners on the rise include brown rice syrup, yacon syrup (a thick, molasseslike substance made from a South American tuber), date sugar, and palm and coconut sugars.

The downside to most alternative sweeteners is that it takes a dedicated consumer to seek them out and use them on a regular basis.

They're expensive, too. Agave averages $5.50 for 11 ounces and yacon syrup is $12.99 for 8 ounces, compared to $1 for a pound of sugar.

They also can be difficult to find. Stevia, in the form of Cargill/Pepsi-manufactured packets labeled Truvia, is the exception, and is now on display at most markets, though liquid concentrated stevia is usually available only at health-food stores. Whole Foods Markets carry agave, yacon, and brown rice syrups; palm sugar can be found in Asian groceries and at Essene Market.

And despite their natural provenance, alternative sweeteners are not always healthier per se. Some have more nutritional benefits than others, but nearly all sweeteners are still treated as sugar in the body, meaning any excess calories will be stored as fat. And while agave syrup, for example, is higher in calories than sugar, less of it may be used per serving because its taste is sweeter.

Consumers also have to watch for claims of low glycemic index made by products, as they can vary widely.

On the plus side, unlike bitter and fake-tasting artificial sweeteners of the past, today's natural sweeteners each offer a specific flavor profile that can actually enhance the taste of desserts, drinks, and baked goods.

Agave, favored by many bartenders, can be substituted for simple syrup to sweeten beverages. It can also be used in savory dishes where a pinch of sugar is called for, in applesauce, chutney, or barbecue sauce. Light agave is fairly neutral and "clean" in taste like sugar, while amber and dark agave nectars lend more of a distinct caramel flavor, and make a nice topping for pancakes and waffles.

Choosing which sweetener to use is largely a matter of taste and application for most people, but those with diabetes or prediabetes should consult their doctors. For the record, the American Diabetes Association does not recommend one sweetener over another.

At Sweet Freedom, cookies and cakes are made with agave nectar and coconut or palm sugar.

"Agave lends itself well to recipes that involve any kind of liquid, like a ganache or glaze. We use it in our frosting. Coconut sugar is great; many vegans and raw-foodists like it. It has a sweet but subtly caramel taste to it which lends itself to use in muffins, banana bread, or anything with cocoa," Lubert says.

At 10 Arts in the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, pastry chef Monica Glass uses agave nectar for desserts like a coconut custard, while at home she experiments more widely with yacon and brown rice syrups.

"For customers, I would use an alternative sweetener not as a sugar substitute per se, but because it would add another dimension of flavor to the dessert," Glass says. "But at home I avoid refined sugars for health reasons. I use agave, yacon syrup, and brown rice syrup in my muffins, granola bars and yogurts."

To swap out refined sugar for natural alternatives, follow some basic guidelines.

"If you're converting a recipe with sugar to a liquid sweetener like maple or brown rice syrup, you want to use less liquid somewhere else to compensate for the moisture," says Dana Fore, Essene's bakery manager.

"Sometimes the baking time will be a little longer, especially with brown rice syrup because it can create a gummy texture."