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Good Taste

Cheese of the Month

I'm usually a purist when it comes to my monthly fromage, but Shellbark Hollow Farm's fresh goat has become such a splendid canvas for local chefs, I couldn't resist this casserole from Southwark's Sheri Waide. It's an easy holiday hit.

Waide creams a quarter-pound each of Shellbark's fresh and aged goat cheeses, then adds a custard of 8 eggs blended with a quart of heavy cream and 2 tablespoons of chopped herbs (parsley, thyme, rosemary, tarragon, and chives). Fill a 9-by-9-inch casserole and bake in a water bath at 325 degrees for 45 minutes. When ready for guests, top with bread-crumb mix (3 cups bread plus 11/2 cups Parmesan) and warm in a 325-degree oven for 20 minutes until golden brown. Serve with flatbreads and honey, and bask in baked goat-cheese glory.

- Craig LaBan

Shellbark goat cheese, $25 a pound at Fair Food Farmstand (215-627-2029) in Reading Terminal Market.

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