Sardines, anchovies, smelts. To know them is to love them. Getting to know them properly is the issue, but all that's needed is a "fresh" look.

Most of us remember canned sardines or anchovies as something our parents or our parents' parents would eat at home while we turned our noses up. And perhaps that memory kept us from discovering the fresh varieties.

"It's a generational thing," says Sam Mink, of the Oyster House, known by locals of another generation as the Sansom Street Oyster House.

He says there may be a cultural gap too. Europeans, especially those from Portugal and Greece, devour small fresh fishes. On this side of the ocean it's been a different matter.

"Many Americans think of sardines as smelly things in cans, Mink says. "They remember anchovies as dark, hairy things on salads. And for the most part, they don't know the difference between sardines or anchovies."

But oh, how times have changed.

These small fishes are gaining respect for their sustainability, savory taste, and health benefits. They are lower on the food chain, so they don't contain as many toxins such as mercury. The high omega-3 content of sardines and smelt, for example, makes them heart-healthy. And chefs love small fish because they come with smaller price tags and still satisfy appetites.

"People are pleasantly surprised when they take a bite," says Mink, whose Center City restaurant serves fresh sardines from Portugal.

"Quite a few people keep coming back for more," Mink says.

Oyster House sardines are filleted and grilled, then served on crostini with a side of arugula and roasted red peppers.

Smelts are a surprising favorite at Standard Tap in Northern Liberties. Chef Carolyn Angle says fresh smelts are slightly larger than the frozen variety she buys in the off-season.

She dips the small smelt in buttermilk and seasoned bread crumbs and deep-fries quickly. She grills the larger smelt.

"People actually call ahead now to find out if we're serving the small or the large smelt," Angle says. "And when I hire new servers, I make them eat the smelt, so they'll be able to describe them to customers."

Angle says the generation gap also shows itself with smelts, which some people think of as "old-people food."

As Northern Liberties has become gentrified, younger artists are more likely to eat out on weeknights and people their parents' age who live on the Main Line dominate on weekends.

"The older crowd will come in raving about smelts," Angle says. "But the younger people don't know about smelts - until they taste them. Then they love them."

Standard Tap regulars also ask for Angle's grilled sardines.

"That season just started too. We serve them head-on, but gutted and with the scales pulled off."

Fresh smelts and sardines have been a staple on the menu at Estia ever since the restaurant opened four years ago on Locust Street between Broad and 15th.

Manager Stephen Nothnagel says the sardines are deboned, stuffed with fresh oregano and wrapped in celery strands, brushed with ladolemeno - an olive oil and lemon emulsion - and then charcoal grilled.