Posted on Thu, Nov. 5, 2009
It's been a long time coming for Snackbar, but this ever-adventurous corner for avant-garde eats off Rittenhouse Square has finally found the happy medium between innovation and accessibility. Gone are the cumbersome lounge seats in favor of actual tables. Gone are the overambitious prices, with entrees in a neighborhood-friendly $20-and-under range.
More important, Snackbar has itself a rising star in 27-year-old chef John Taus (ex-Zahav, James, Tangerine, Bliss), whose knack for updating familiar comforts can be magnetic, whether it's popcorn tossed in brown butter and fleur de sel, killer pierogies with chive cream and caviar, or the croquette of crispy pig trotters and chanterelles over jalapeno grits. His best dish, though, a flaky schmaltz-infused pastry round of chicken pot pie deconstructed - just enough - with a rich smear of creamy sage gravy on the side, is inspired by his own Allentown mom, Mary Beth. It tastes like Snackbar's kitchen finally feels at home.
- Craig LaBan
Chicken pot pie with sage cream, $10, at Snackbar, 253 S. 20th St., 215-545-5655.
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