Lobster? Foie gras? You call these hoagies?
This article was originally published in the Philadelphia Inquirer on Aug. 21, 2003.
Hoagie lovers united - and won.
With the ban on bringing Philadelphia's hero sandwich and other food into Lincoln Financial Field rescinded, fans attending the Eagles' preseason opener at the new stadium tomorrow night are free to enjoy their favorites field-side.
To help fans make the most of this opportunity - and take their at-home noshing to a new level - we asked three top local chefs what kind of hoagie-style sandwich they'd make for themselves and friends when headed to an Eagles game or other sporting event.
The participating chefs:
Joe Brown, chef/owner of Melange Cafe in Cherry Hill, whose New Orleans version of a hoagie - his Muffuletta - is on the cafe's lunch menu, paired with Cajun fries. (See recipe: Joe Brown's Muffuletta Hoagie.)
Gene Betz, executive chef at the Saloon in South Philadelphia, who chose a Lobster Hoagie reminiscent of the New England lobster rolls he enjoyed growing up in Connecticut. (See recipe: Gene Betz's Lobster Hoagie.)
Master chef Georges Perrier, chef/owner of Le Bec-Fin and Brasserie Perrier in Center City and Le Mas Perrier in Wayne. His Hoagie Francais comes luxuriously (if optionally) with sliced cured foie gras. (See recipe: Georges Perrier's Hoagie Francais.)
Making sandwiches to go to Veterans Stadium was in Betz's playbook for ages. "My boss had Eagles season tickets for about 35 years," said the chef, who occasionally used those tickets himself.
"We brought all kinds of sandwiches to the Vet and we'd go tailgating, eating ribs and such. You could always find someone to party with down there."
Brown, who played football on a Police Athletic League team while growing up in Willingboro 30 years ago, spends his time out of the kitchen coaching the Vikings, his son Jordan's team in the Gibbsboro-Voorhees Athletic Association.
It's the third year for both the chef and 8-year-old Jordan, who at 90 pounds has a line position, Brown said while making his sandwich in the family's sunny, white-tiled kitchen overlooking the wooded lot at their Voorhees home.
Perrier's view of the American sport differs from that of his culinary cohorts.
"I am sitting with the owner, Jeffrey Lurie, so I don't have to bring food," Perrier explained as he prepared the pickled onions and cured foie gras for his hoagie in his home kitchen in Haverford. The luxurious kitchen is outfitted with Gaggenau and Viking ovens, a six-burner stovetop, pullout pantry cupboards and has mixed formal and country French decor that includes candelabra on the thick glass-and-granite-topped snack bar/work counter.
When the Eagles imposed their ban on carrying food into the Linc last month - claiming it posed a security risk, threatening fans' safety - Philly food and football fans were fed up.
The three-week furor ended with team president Joe Banner dropping the no-food rule on July 31. Fans toting food, however, will be directed to "inspection gates."
Granted, as good as they are, our chefs' gourmet hoagies won't appeal to every sports fan. Many a Joe Sixpack will no doubt stick to his traditional Italian hoagie from Lee's or some other favorite shop.
But all three of our chefs' choices provide new taste combinations and some touches that may be applied to other dishes.
Perrier's fresh-cured foie gras and Brown's olive salad spread, for instance, make excellent toppings for bruschetta appetizers. The pickled and caramelized onions can be used as condiments with meats and other foods. And Betz's idea of using oven-dried plum tomatoes is a good way to concentrate tomato flavor for any sandwich or entree.
If you do tote your own food to your $55-and-up seats at the Linc, remember to wrap everything in clear plastic (sandwich bags are recommended).
Joe Brown's Muffuletta Hoagie As published in the Inquirer on Aug. 21, 2003
Makes 2 sandwiches (2 to 4 servings)
1/2 cup pimiento-stuffed manzanilla olives (see note)
1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives






