2 pounds ground lamb

1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt

2 tablespoons dried savory

6 cloves garlic, minced

Finely grated zest of 2 lemons

1/2 to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

14 ounces feta cheese, crumbled into chunky pieces

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

12 plain pita pocket breads or other buns

Sliced onions, tomatoes and cucumbers

Arugula and fresh mint leaves

Purchased tzatziki

1. Using your hands, mix the lamb, yogurt, savory, garlic, zest, red pepper, salt and black pepper to taste in a large bowl. Gently mix in the crumbled feta. Divide mixture into 12 equal portions, then into balls by gently tossing them from hand to hand. Shape into 1-inch-thick loosely packed oval patties. Press the center of each patty so it is slightly thinner than the edges. Pack the patties in a plastic container with waxed paper or plastic wrap separating them. Transport in a cooler.

2. To serve, brush the burgers with olive oil and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Grill the burgers, turning once, until firm to the touch and with a little bit of give, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside while grilling the pitas. Slit a burger-size opening in each pita, brush with olive oil, and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Grill until lightly toasted. Serve the burgers in the pitas with the garnishes of your choice and tzatziki, if desired.