With five grapes weaving through this golden juice, there's a vivid plume of flavors showing - the exotic spice of gewurztraminer, the quincelike sweet-tart of semillon, the orchard fruit and body of chardonnay, rich pinot gris, and a peck of sweet muscat for the finishing hook. I first tasted this Barossa beaut at the Ebbitt Room in Cape May, and was impressed by how it complemented so many foods, from a zesty amatriciana to butter-poached lobster. Sadly for the Pennsylvania-bound, the state stores aren't slated to get their supply until late summer. But for lucky Shore vacationers, it's worth a short detour off the Garden State Parkway to Somers Point, where venerable Circle Liquors has mustered several cases and a worthy sale price with the store discount card.

The 2008 Layers white blend from Peter Lehmann costs $13.99 (with store card) at Circle Liquors in Somers Point, 609-927-6422.

- Craig LaBan