Posted on Thu, Apr. 16, 2009
Queen Village
Kebab King
Fans of the old-school Continental elegance that once was Overtures will likely be in for an anti-ambience shock when they step into the old Passyunk Avenue haunt to discover the bare-bones banquet-chair decor of its new tenant. But what the fledgling S&H Kebab House lacks in style, it more than makes up for in flavor and value.
This Turkish grill from owners Sal Kucuk (he's the "S") and chef Hussein Yuksel (he's the "H") is all about spot-on, homemade Ottoman classics, and this iskender kebab is one of my favorites. Made from well-onioned ground lamb and roasted on a gyro spit layered with veal, the meat comes sliced over a platter of butter-crisped pita chips beneath lively tomato sauce and a rich dollop of strained homemade yogurt. It's a true taste of Istanbul street food and is a particularly hearty deal at lunch for $7.95 with a side of Turkish red lentil soup.
- Craig LaBan
The iskender kebab lunch special costs $7.95 ($13.95 at dinner) at S&H Kebab House, 611 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-3214; www.kebabhouseonline.com.
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