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DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
Jose Garces' Distrito in University City, an upscale taco and tequila palace, was the year's best overall new restaurant.
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The Year in Bells

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Big doings on the dining scene

The mega-restaurant and the return of the French bistro were among the trends of 2008.

Da Vinci Ristorante

1533 S. 11th St., 215-336-3636; www.davinciristorante.net

This new Italian BYO comes with an oddly retro sense of bustle-curtained formality, and an upscale menu that ranges over familiar territory for East Passyunk. It's most interesting for specials, in which chef-owner Francesco Parmisciano, a longtime Lamberti cook, nods to the more authentic flavors of his Southern Italian home. But too many inconsistencies, and serious service goofs, made it hard to separate this newcomer from the pack. Reviewed Oct. 19.

Devil's Den

1148 S. 11th St. (at Ellsworth), 215-339-0855; www.devilsdenphilly.com

Another gastropub grows in place of a former South Philly Italian, as the old Felicia's makes way for a handsome bar with serious beers and some culinary ambitions. The big international brew list is worth driving for. The appealing beer-cuisine menu, meanwhile, struggled too much to hit its mark. Reviewed Aug. 24.

Sonam

223 South St.

CLOSED.

Reviewed May 25.

Swallow

1030 N. American St., 215-238-1399

Husband-and-wife chefs Jason and Cindy Caminos transplanted from Washington D.C.to open a BYO with a French flair (and bare-bones purple decor) in Northern Liberties. After a shaky start, they've reconcepted the restaurant into an all "mac & cheese" bistro.

It would be a bold move - if the macaroni was worth driving for. A recent meal, though, did not offer much promise, as the kitchen put forth bowls of inexpensive precooked noodles blended with mix-and-match toppings that were ordinary at best. Reviewed June 22; revisited in December.

Poor

Javier

208 Kings Highway, Haddonfield, 856-428-4220; www.javiercontinental.com

The former owner of Word of Mouth has opened a chic BYOB in Haddonfield wrapped in chocolate browns, wrought-iron accents, and very cushy chairs. Unfortunately, the wide-ranging menu and amateur service did not come even close to the quality expected at such upscale prices.

A recent return meal showed little, if any, progress, with carelessly prepared expensive plates (like a "medium-rare" tuna steak that was essentially still raw), and completely clueless service, and bad lounge music. There were a couple of tasty new morsels from the owner's native Bolivia, but they were still too much of a menu footnote beside the so-called "Continental" cuisine. Reviewed April 13; revisited in December.


Revisited Restaurants

"The Year in Bells" is a record of the year's reviews and ratings. Inevitably, however, the restaurants continue to evolve. With this in mind, I annually make year-end visits to several places that I suspect underperformed during their initial review, or that underwent a major change. This year, I revisited seven, two of which changed ratings: Chima climbed up, and Maia slipped a rung.

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