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DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
Jose Garces' Distrito in University City, an upscale taco and tequila palace, was the year's best overall new restaurant.
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The Year in Bells

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Big doings on the dining scene

The mega-restaurant and the return of the French bistro were among the trends of 2008.

1100 S. Front St., 215-336-1100; www.uglyamericanphilly.com

The old La Vigna has been transformed into a friendly New American bistro and pub. In-house baking, from biscuits to caraway-seeded "weck" buns, add ambition to an affordable menu of updated bar foods with an Upstate New York twist. Despite some inconsistency, it's a fine "real food" option when visiting the nearby movie complex. Reviewed April 27.

Time

1315 Sansom St., 215-985-4800; www.timerestaurant.net

The absinthe fountains are flowing at this multiheaded replacement for Ludwig's Garden from the owners of nearby Vintage. The concept is a bit incoherent, but with parts like these - great beer and whiskeys, live jazz, some modestly tasty chop-house updates, and, yes, real absinthe - there are good reasons to visit. There has been a chef change since the review. Reviewed July 20.

Uzbekistan

12012 Bustleton Ave., 215-671-1990

Bring a big group of adventure diners to this authentic Uzbek eatery in the Russian Northeast, where lamb is the dominant theme - in fragrant rice pilafs, homemade noodles, dumplings and soups, and skewered for the charcoal grill. It's a more intimate sit-down restaurant than the typical Russian nightclub, but still a fun destination for celebratory large tables laden with BYO vodka and cognac. The tandoor-baked round bread alone is worth a visit. Reviewed Nov. 23.

Hit-or-Miss

Astral Plane Millenium

1708 Lombard St., 215-735-0815 www.astralplanemillenium.com

This star-crossed revival by new owners of the funky Restaurant Renaissance classic didn't stick - even after they changed the name following the review. "ChriStevens" recently closed. Reviewed Feb. 24.

Azie

217-19 W. State St., Media, 610-566-4750; www.azie-restaurant.com

The owners of Teikoku have opened a sleek contemporary Japanese sibling in Media, a stunningly modern bilevel space with real destination potential. Unfortunately, the kitchen delivered a weak Morimoto knockoff menu with heavy-handed sauces, careless maki, and some unexpectedly jarring non-Asian notes. Reviewed March 9.

Chima

1901 JFK Blvd. (at 20th St.), 215-525-3233; www.chimasteakhouse.com

The all-you-can-eat Brazilian steak-house field gets a massive new player in this sleek contemporary chain. The upscale space is handsome, and the steak-slicing gauchos a tableside spectacle, but Chima got off to a rough start with a "No Bells" review in September due to carelessly cooked, oversalted meats and unacceptable service gaffes for $50-plus a diner.

A recent revisit showed significant improvement with the meats and modest progress with service. But the huge salad bar is still lacking much flavor, and the meat-athon experience seems worthwhile only at a discount price - either with one of the ubiquitous coupons or at the special lunch hours offered during holidays. Reviewed with No Bells on Sept. 21; upgraded after a December revisit.

¡Cuba!

8609 Germantown Ave., Philadelphia 215-242-4422

This ambitious new Cuban BYO brings a romantic slice of old Havana to Chestnut Hill, with handsomely distressed walls, good art, and a savory Latin soundtrack. The upscale menu, though, was a disappointing blend of weakly rendered classics, small portions, and stabs at innovation that lacked the substance to merit the relatively high prices. Reviewed Oct. 5.

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