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DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
Jose Garces' Distrito in University City, an upscale taco and tequila palace, was the year's best overall new restaurant.
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The Year in Bells

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Big doings on the dining scene

The mega-restaurant and the return of the French bistro were among the trends of 2008.

This classic Chester County barn-market for doughnuts and pumpkins has morphed into a more ambitious gastro-destination under new ownership, with house-smoked barbecue at the casual market by day and elaborate tasting menus for private parties at a 22-seat chef's table by night. There's still room for polish from chef-owners Guillermo Tellez and Rob Boone, both alums of Charlie Trotter's and Striped Bass, but they've shown flashes of promise at the tastings, which make for an intimate fine-dining event. Reviewed Nov. 2.

Parc

227 S. 18th St., 215-545-2262; www.parc-restaurant.com

Stephen Starr has created a stunning vision of Paris on Rittenhouse Square in this vast re-creation of a vintage brasserie that feels French down to the smoked mirrors. It's one of the biggest restaurant spectacles of the last decade, but also a victim of its runaway success, with an ear-splitting noise problem (at night) and a kitchen that sometimes struggles to consistently serve its polished bistro fare hot to more than 1,000 diners a day. There has been a change of chef since the review. Reviewed Oct. 26.

Pearl

1904 Chestnut St., 215-564-9090; www.pearlphilly.com

This sleek bilevel nightspot transplants a slice of Old City to Rittenhouse Square, from the shifting ambient lights and exclusive upstairs lounge to a familiar Asian fusion menu in the downstairs dining room. Talented opening chef Ari Weiswasser did a far better job with the food than one might expect from a club, but has left since the review. Former sous Greg Grabacz has taken over, with a more affordable new menu and a name change for the dining room, Akoya, expected to debut in January. Reviewed June 15.

Pub & Kitchen

1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350

The gastropub craze takes a "pabbit" leap forward with this lively rehab of the former Chaucer's, where Rittenhousers, Penn students and scenesters alike brave the noise and wait for rising star Jonathan McDonald's fresh take on pub fare. Inspired by rustic British cookery instead of his previous affinity for molecular gastronomy, McDonald's menu has unique highlights, but needs focus and consistency to reach its considerable promise. The beer program should also be a notch better. Reviewed Dec. 21.

St. Stephen's Green

1701 Green St., 215-769-5000

A handsome, wood-paneled pub with a Dublin look has been installed in the long-vacant Cuvee Notredame space by owners of the Dark Horse and Bishop's Collar. It's become a great neighborhood eatery since the arrival of veteran chef Ben McNamara (ex-New Wave), whose reservoir of gastropub fare has resolved the kitchen's early troubles. Reviewed Jan. 20.

Ted's on Main

20 S. Main St., Medford, 609-654-7011; www.tedsonmain.net

Chef Ted Iwachiw's sophisticated BYO bistro brings some of the region's best New Orleans-inspired cooking to Medford's historic downtown strip. The chef, who helped open Striped Bass in the mid-'90s, draws on subsequent stints in Louisiana and the Bahamas for an upscale menu that presents local ingredients in contemporary dishes that evoke Southern flavors without the cliches. Reviewed Feb. 3.

10 Arts

The Ritz-Carlton, 10 Avenue of the Arts, 215-523-8000; www.10arts.com

The Ritz has brought new color to its staid lobby, with modern pinks and prism glass in the classic marble dome, and star-chef power to the kitchen, with haute bistro cuisine by Eric Ripert from New York's Le Bernardin. There are many fine flavors to be had, but service is still awkward, prices are high, and the menu often feels a bit unambitious given the grandeur of this space. Reviewed Aug. 31.

The Ugly American

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