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DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
Jose Garces' Distrito in University City, an upscale taco and tequila palace, was the year's best overall new restaurant.
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The Year in Bells

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Big doings on the dining scene

The mega-restaurant and the return of the French bistro were among the trends of 2008.

Bruce Cooper turns to wood-fired gourmet pizzas, small plates, and a wine bar in this bustling annex to his contemporary standby, Jake's, and it's the ideal casual concept to keep both the high-end dining room and flagging Manayunk relevant. It can be too noisy, and weekend waits are long, but a deft blend of style and quality New American cooking remind why Cooper has been one of Philly's best for decades. Reviewed Dec. 14.

Dim Sum Garden

59 N. 11th St., 215-627-0218

Don't let the grim bus stop-tunnel locale deter you from discovering this hidden Chinatown gem. The obscure, neon-lit box of a room is a bargain destination for an array of rare, handmade Shanghai specialties, from steamed buns ("soup dumplings") to cleaver-cut noodles, sticky rice sui mai, and stellar scallion pancakes. The perfect nourishment before boarding the bargain bus to N.Y.C. Reviewed April 20.

Dream Cuisine

Village Walk, 1990 Route 70 East, Cherry Hill, 856-751-2800; www.dreamcuisinecafe.net

The South of France in a South of Jersey strip mall? When chef Vincent Fanari is in the groove of his open kitchen, and the weather is good for patio dining, the answer is oui! The easily overlooked little space is spare yet comfortable, but it's Fanari's menu of rustic Provençal cooking - simple dishes, zesty olive-tomato sauces, and homemade pastas - that satisfies, especially the bargain prix-fixe menu. Reviewed June 1.

Everyday Good House

5501 N. Front St. (at Olney), 215-276-7942

The out-of-the-way industrial building is deceiving. Upstairs, you'll find a surprisingly well-appointed dining room with some of the area's best Korean barbecue on the charcoal-fired table grills - plus many other well-wrought classics. Downstairs is a warren of private karaoke rooms to sing off the beef and spice. Reviewed March 30.

Jasper

78 W. Lancaster Ave., Downingtown, 610-269-7776; www.jasperdowningtown.com

Chef Nick DiFonzo brings an ambitious New American menu to a converted Victorian home in downtown Downingtown. The space needs decorating work, and the service is green, but the kitchen delivers a satisfying menu rooted in French techniques, good ingredients and clever combinations, from watermelon with goat cheese salad to fennel-crusted lamb. DiFonzo, who closed the restaurant briefly after suffering a brain aneurysm, is back healthy in the kitchen. Reviewed May 11.

Kaffa Crossing

4423 Chestnut St., 215-386-0504; www.kaffacrossing.com

This cheery cafe is a bright spot for one West Philly block on the rebound, doubling as a mellow fair-trade coffee shop and one of the area's better Ethiopian kitchens. Don't expect savvy service, but the traditional menu of spicy lentil stews and quick-fried meats served over crepelike injera is cooked with care and skill. Reviewed June 29.

Las Bugambilias

148 South St., 215-922-3190

Former Tequila's chef Carlos Molina and his wife, Michelle Zimmerman, have opened a charming storefront eatery dedicated to traditional Mexican cooking. The cozy, bright-yellow space is a personal ode to vintage Mexi-cinema. The menu uses good ingredients in dishes that reflect refined authenticity, rather than creativity. Reviewed Feb. 10.

Le Virtù

1927 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626; www.levirtu.com

South Philly's best new Italian offers authentic Abruzzese cooking from imported chef Luciana Spurio, whose homespun pastas with meat ragus, deep-fried stuffed olives, and monkfish alla pizzaiola pair with a smart regional wine list (and surprisingly good beers) in a handsomely rustic room. The outdoor patio is a warm weather delight. A year-end revisit was enjoyable, but average service and an overly broad menu (with a few weak dishes) remain the issues that hold this already notable trattoria back from the next level. Reviewed March 23; revisited in December.

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