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DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
Jose Garces' Distrito in University City, an upscale taco and tequila palace, was the year's best overall new restaurant.
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The Year in Bells

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Big doings on the dining scene

The mega-restaurant and the return of the French bistro were among the trends of 2008.

In a city experiencing a boom in Israeli street food, Zahav buffs up the genre. Perched above Society Hill's Ritz Five theater, it can look aloof. But its tables warm up with artful Middle Eastern "tapas," vegetarian dishes, wood-oven flatbreads, soulful bowls of Yemenite soup, and, for the adventurous, a pricier fine-dining option featuring chef Michael Solomonov's "modern Mediterranean" stylings, served in a back room heavy with pretension. Reviewed by Rick Nichols Aug. 17.

 

Very Good

Bistrot la Minette

623 S. Sixth St., Phila., 215-925-8000; www.bistrotlaminette.com.

This new Queen Village French bistro has a neighborhood charm and handcrafted warmth, from the cheery red velvet banquettes and quirky Burgundian knickknack decor to the homemade bread. Chef-owner Peter Woolsey (ex-Striped Bass, Lucas Carton) indulges some intriguingly authentic bistro classics, many tasty, but inconsistent execution, especially with entrees, holds the kitchen back from its full potential. Reviewed Dec. 7.

Blue Pear Bistro

275 Brintons Bridge Rd.,

West Chester, 610-399-9812; www.bluepearbistro.com.

The Dilworthtown Inn has opened a neighboring bistro inside a historic former general store, a pubby, bilevel space that hums with a local crowd seeking a casual ambience and affordable, contemporized comforts (almost all less than $20 an entree). The menu is limited, but a talented young chef, David Fogleman, makes the most of his unusual kitchen comeback. Reviewed Jan. 6.

Cafe Apamate

1620 South St., 215-790-1620; www.cafeapamate.com.

This intriguing BYO brings a taste of Spain to its paprika-colored South Street room, which has evolved into one of the best tapas kitchens in town. The vivid combinations range from modern scallops under apple foam to zesty tortilla omelets at brunch and addictive dark chocolate with churros. Spotty service has been a weakness. Reviewed March 2.

Cafe Estelle

444 N. Fourth St., 215-925-5080; www.cafeestelle.com.

The city's best new breakfast-lunch kitchen resides in an obscure loft building between Old City and Northern Liberties, where chef Marshall Green (Django, Ansill) and Kristin Mulvenna serve ambitiously homemade flavors with warm service and affordable prices in a laid-back, kid-friendly cafe. Almost everything is crafted on site, from the breads to the bacon, making this hidden gem worth finding. Reviewed Sept. 28.

Cochon

801 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-923-7675; www.cochonbyob.com.

Chef-owner Gene Giuffi (ex-La Boheme, -¡Pasion!) and his wife, Amy, have opened one of the year's most talked-about BYOBs with this romantic French BYOBbistro in Queen Village, an angular slip of a room clad in tile and tin walls. Giuffi's gutsy cooking fine-tunes some bistro standards, and has an affinity for all things pig, from tender shoulder over lentils to charcuterie and juniper-laced chops. A recent revisit, though, showed a few too many rough edges still left to polish - in consistency, intensity of flavors, and the sophistication of the dishes - before this promising newcomer can step up to three bells. Reviewed Jan. 13; revisited in November.

Cooper's Brick Oven Wine Bar

4367 Main St., Manayunk, 215-483-2750; www.jakesrestaurant.com.

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