Izakaya

The Borgata, One Borgata Way, Atlantic City, 1-866-692-6742.

This sultry take on the Japanese pub is a sake-splashed coming-out for rising star Michael Schulson, an ex-Starr chef who opened Pod and Manhattan's Buddakan. The moodily dark room, a multimillion-dollar remake of the Borgata's Suilan, has a casual feel, but the kitchen delivers high-style takes on Japanese small plates, from miso-glazed lobster skewers roasted over the wood-fired robatayaki grill to stellar sushi, spicy tuna crackers, decadent Kobe steaks, and numerous sakes by the glass. Reviewed Nov. 2.

Marigold Kitchen

501 S. 45th St. (at Larchwood); 215-222-3699; www.marigoldkitchenbyob.com.

This intimate and ambitious West Philly rowhouse eatery has completely changed culinary personalities yet again, but remains among the city's most sophisticated BYOBs, with an impressive and unique contemporary Southern menu from new chef Erin O'Shea. A price drop reflects Marigold's push to become a neighborhood destination again. Reviewed May 18.

Rouget

2 Swamp Rd., Newtown, 215-860-4480.

Chef Brian Held has transformed the Victorian dining rooms of a former Newtown teahouse into quite possibly the best restaurant in Bucks County. His elegant contemporary takes on classic French cooking come at amazingly fair prices, with polished service that isn't stuffy. This BYOB is even good enough to overlook the startling Pepto-pink walls. Reviewed June 8.

Supper

926 South St., 215-592-8180; www.supperphilly.com.

Caterers Mitch and Jennifer Prensky have opened one of the year's most ambitious new restaurants, a stylish bilevel space that features a sophisticated take on the small-plate movement. The little plates aren't cheap, but the contemporary cooking is satisfyingly inventive and impressively wrought. Plus, there's great house-baked bread to sate the big eaters. Reviewed Feb. 17.

Table 31

Comcast Center, 1701 John F. Kennedy Blvd., 215-567-7111; www.table-31.com.

The team behind Brasserie Perrier has put the red meat into Comcast's new skyscraper, drawing a serious power crowd to a multilevel modern steak house tailored for the corporate set. The less-expensive outdoor cafe has a wider, more casual appeal for a breezy lunch. Expect to spend big inside, though, where the wide-ranging menu excels with huge, prime-grade chops that rank among the city's best. Reviewed Sept. 14.

Xochitl

408 S. Second St., 215-238-7280. Dionicio Jimenez's exciting Nuevo Mexicano matured enough in its first year to earn a third bell. Stunning updates on traditional flavors, from duck mole to sublime ceviche and barbacoa, are consistently great. Sophisticated service, great tequilas and an evocative space make it one of the city's best Mexicans. Revisited January 2008.

Zahav

237 St. James Place (overlooking Dock Street near Second and Walnut), 215-625-8800; www.zahavrestaurant.com.