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Tasty cookbooks for the amateur chef

Shook and Dotolo's first book, Two Dudes, One Pan: Maximum Flavor From a Minimalist Kitchen, is as colorful and scruffy as the chefs themselves. The book is a happy mishmash, with recipes ranging from spicy citrus-glazed duck breasts to basic buttermilk pancakes.

Some recipes are successful riffs on the traditional: Bacon-wrapped meatloaf is shot with herbs, moist and deeply flavorful. But other dishes are disappointing.

Vinny's spaghetti Bolognese was too heavy, thickened with unnecessary butter and cream. Pan-roasted eggplant with shallot vinaigrette turned out underseasoned and undercooked.

Although some new user-friendly cookbooks are uneven, the standouts - Appleman's and Oliver's - are practical yet imaginative, with accessible instructions. They're also a bargain - compared with many of the for-pros books: All six hardcovers come in at less than $40 each.

Meanwhile, chefs, wannabe chefs, and collectors willing to spend ($250 for Blumenthal's The Big Fat Duck Cookbook) or who have a handy immersion circulator (needed for Keller's sous vide book) will have a stack of great cookbooks this fall, too.


Almond Biscotti

Makes 42 Biscotti

8 tablespoons (1 stick)

   unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup sugar

2 eggs

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

11/2 teaspoons baking

   powder

Pinch of salt

3/4 cup sliced almonds

1. Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

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