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This jerez de la Frontera from the Southwest coast of Spain is a "sacristia" sherry, typically the heart of solera blend, but left unblended in this bottle. The result is a brassy-colored fortified wine that isn't as dark or syrupy sweet as typical sherries made from moscatel (or "muscat"). It has a floral sweetness, to be sure, but also the taste of nuts, a lively orange peel spice, and a yeasty finish more associated with dry sherries. Give it a little chill before pouring, and it will be the perfect match your stinky cheese has been waiting for.
The moscatel sherry from La Cosecha costs $15 at both Moore Bros. stores: 7200 N. Park Dr., Pennsauken, 856-317-1177; 1416 N. Dupont St., Wilmington, 877-316-6673.
- Craig LaBan
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