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Three choices that will stand up to the season's cuisine: a lightly oaked chardonnay, a juicy and tannic Barolo, and a pinot noir from the Pacific Northwest.
SARAH J. GLOVER / Staff Photographer
Three choices that will stand up to the season's cuisine: a lightly oaked chardonnay, a juicy and tannic Barolo, and a pinot noir from the Pacific Northwest.


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Match hearty wines to those autumn feasts

Reach for the reds - and a few whites.

4 skirt steaks, 1/2 pound each

Salt to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon dry thyme

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

1. In a small bowl, blend the oil, chili powder, cumin, cayenne, black pepper, garlic and thyme. Brush the mixture on all sides of the steaks. Cover with plastic - but do not refrigerate - for an hour or more.

2. Preheat the broiler or grill.

3. If broiling, arrange the steaks on a rack over a baking dish, about 6 inches from the heating unit. Broil for about 7 minutes per side (or more depending on thickness of meat) with the door partly open. A meat thermometer should register about 135 degrees for medium rare, but not much more because the meat will continue cooking out of the oven.

4. Transfer the steaks to a hot platter and dot with the butter. Let them stand in a warm place for 5 minutes. Slice against the grain.

- From Cuisine Rapide, by Pierre Franey and Bryan Miller

Per serving: 580 calories, 46 grams protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace sugar, 43 grams fat, 151 milligrams cholesterol, 195 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.
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