Posted on Thu, Sep. 11, 2008
If there's a genuine homey touch to the Turkish delicacies served at charming little Cafe Fulya in Queen Village, it's because Fulya Ugur's mom, Melahat Ugur, is doing the cooking.
This ruby-tiled nook is the casual crosstown sibling to Divan Turkish Kitchen, owned by Fulya's brother, Ilker. And it's a nice spot for strong Turkish coffee and buttery baklava or a caramelized milk pudding that melts away like a custard cloud. But you can also make a nice lunch out of some of the savory nibbles, too, like this "meze" platter of five appetizers that's big enough to share. Among the highlights were shredded carrots cooked with sweet onions in garlic yogurt, lemony tabbouleh ribboned with lettuce, a smoky mash of charred eggplant, and a classic Russian salad (potatoes, peas, carrots) that gets its authentic taste of Istanbul from a squeeze of imported Turkish mayonnaise. Just like mom used to make back home.
The mixed appetizer platter costs $15 at Cafe Fulya, 727 S. 2nd St., 267-909-9937.
- Craig LaBan
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