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Using leaves, nature's simple, brilliant cookware

Finding leaves to cook with at your next grilling can be as easy as pulling down a branch in your backyard - if you have fig trees in your yard, that is. Make sure that you're harvesting leaves from a fig tree, and that it hasn't been sprayed with pesticides.

If you don't have a fig tree (or your neighbor doesn't), many fig vendors at farmers markets will be happy to bring you a bundle of leaves if you ask ahead.

Brined grape leaves can be found in the international section of your grocery store or at Mediterranean or Middle-Eastern markets.

Banana leaves are available fresh or frozen at Asian markets and in many grocery stores.

Snip off the woody stem of grape or fig leaves; remove the fibrous inner stalk of banana leaves. If you're picking fresh, choose young leaves, which are more supple, or blanch the leaves briefly in boiling water.

You don't have to blanch the leaves, but it makes them easier to work with - and brings out their aromas. Then just match the flavors and characteristics of the leaves with what you're wrapping inside.

With any extra leaves (on your kitchen counter, on the trees outside), try throwing together a quick extra course. Wrap half a peach drizzled with honey and sprinkled with cinnamon in a fig leaf, or fold a handful of market vegetables - with a splash of olive oil and a brief rain of sea salt - inside a banana leaf.

A few minutes on the grill and they're done.

Practical and biodegradable, those leaves outside your window might be the best kitchen tool you'll ever find.

After dinner, compost the remnants of the feast. Then watch the overhead green canopy - your kitchen's perfect renewable resource - rustle and blow.


Grilled Feta in Grape Leaves

Makes 4 servings

16 grape leaves packed in brine

8 ounces firm feta, cut into 16 (1-inch) squares

Best-quality olive oil for brushing

Wooden skewers for grilling

1. Carefully unroll the grape leaves and rinse well under cold water. Blanch the leaves, a few at a time, in boiling water for 6 to 8 minutes until slightly softened. Remove to a bowl of cold water, then drain and pat dry.

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