- Amy B.

A: The following tips are part of a good foundation in gluten-free cooking. You will be more successful with creating substitutions for gluten products if you remember what the gluten in what flour does in the baking process. When it comes to making cakes, breads and even cookies, the structure is crucial. In most baking, it is preferable to create a light, airy product as opposed to something dense and heavy resembling your grandmother's all-purpose kitchen sponge.

In traditional baking, gluten helps to keep the final product light. When we cook without gluten, we need to replace it with something that will do the same job. There are a handful of ways to accomplish this, and the easiest may be to add a gluten substitute to gluten-free flour. Most high-end grocery stores and just about all health-food stores carry these substitutes. The most common gluten substitutes are xantham gum and guar gum - add 1 1/2 teaspoons of either one of these to one cup of gluten-free flour. This is the best substitution for breads. Another way, which works best in simple recipes like pancakes, muffins and basic cakes, is to use the good old egg. Whip one egg until fluffy and fold in one cup of gluten-free flour. There is no need for a gluten substitute when coating foods. Just use a gluten-free flour and an egg wash.

You may be surprised to find how many choices you have to substitute for regular wheat flour. Here are a few I like to experiment with.

* Potato starch flour: Cut in half of the amount you are using, then mix the other half with a little water before combining with the other ingredients in your recipe.

* Tapioca flour: This flour from the cassava root gives a chewy texture to products.

* Corn flour: I like to use this for coating foods.

* Cornmeal: No need for an explanation, but if you haven't tried this in pancakes you are missing out.

* Rice flour: Look for the words "finely ground" when buying this product. This flour is very neutral and good in most baking.

Amy, I hope your daughter enjoys these recipes, and when the national magazines start featuring gluten-free dishes, remember who was there with you first.

AMY'S FAMILY FAVORITE COOKIES

3 egg whites

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup packed brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1 cup pecan halves

1/4 cup sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Beat egg whites and salt until foamy. Gradually add brown sugar, vanilla and almond extract. Continue beating until stiff peaks form. Fold in pecan halves and almonds. Drop by teaspoon onto greased cookie sheets. Bake for 1 hour. Makes about 2 dozen cookies.

NUT-CRUSTED TILAPIA

6 tilapia filets

1/2 cup crushed mixed nuts (such as pecans,

walnuts, and almonds)

1 cup corn flour

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

Juice of 3 fresh limes

2 teaspoons ground sea salt

1/3 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons white pepper

4 cloves fresh garlic, minced

Marinate the tilapia in a resealable plastic bag with the ginger, garlic, salt, pepper, olive oil and lime juice for about 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a shallow bowl, combine the nuts with the corn flour and chopped basil. Stir until well combined. Place each piece of tilapia in the nut/flour mixture and toss to coat well. Press the mixture on the fish with your hands to make sure it's well coated. Place fish on a nonstick baking pan and bake in the oven for about 15 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

Chef Jim Coleman, corporate chef at Normandy Farm and Blue Bell Country Club, hosts two nationally syndicated shows: "A Chef's Table," noon Saturdays on WHYY (91-FM); and "Flavors of America," 1 p.m. Saturdays on Channel 12, and 4:30 p.m. weekdays on CN8. He and his wife, writer Candace Hagan, will answer questions. E-mail ChefColeman@aol.com.