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APRIL SAUL / Inquirer Staff Photographer
It seems early, but Dwain Livengood is already selling local hothouse tomatoes at the Fairmount Farmers Market. The weather and last year's sales have encouraged many growers.
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Farmers markets and many crops are early to rise

Local crops and farmers markets got an early start this year. And judging from the relative bounty already evident at the growing number of markets, it is going to be a very good year.

Besides opening earlier, markets have attracted more growers and vendors. So far, the variety of crops and products exceeds what we're used to at this point in the season.

The mild winter and good weather conditions get some of the credit. The rest goes to smart farmers who took note of the 15 percent increase in farm-market business here last year and planned ahead, "forcing" some crops in greenhouses and "high tunnels" (tented crop rows in the field) to get early harvests of tomatoes, strawberries, green beans and broccoli to augment the usual spring range of asparagus, rhubarb, onions, leeks, herbs, peas, potatoes, mushrooms, and assorted salad and cooking greens. The only problem may be what they must charge.

"Our farmers are really worried about pricing. Some say they want to keep prices the same as last year," said Bob Pierson, director of Farm to City, a nonprofit group that helps local farmers market crops directly to consumers through farm markets, buying clubs, and Consumer Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs.

With about one-third of his growers maintaining organic certification and another third following natural and low-pesticide farming practices, that just isn't practical, says Pierson, who has been advising growers against undervaluing their goods.

In general, despite increases, farmers markets offer good value for the fresh, locally produced foods they provide, i.e. higher quality at lower prices (with a smaller carbon footprint).

But this year, those prices may not be as low as we are used to. We've been spoiled. For most of us, food has always been readily available and at least reasonably affordable. Actually, by much of the world's standards, an absolute bargain.

Now, as food prices are climbing around the globe, small growers locally are dealing with the same higher costs for energy-dependent fertilizer, feed grain and such, along with the escalating costs of oil and fuel.

Still, local comparison shopping found our farmers market prices competitive with supermarkets'. Local asparagus was $2.25 to $3.95 a bunch (about a pound) at most farmers markets, compared with same-day supermarket prices of $3.99 (Whole Foods) and $4.99 (Pathmark) per pound.

"Even if I have to pay a little more, it's worth it, because the food is fresher and tastes better," said city dweller Dottie Mitchell, drawn to Fairmount's street-corner stands en route to a nearby restaurant.

Another shopper at Fairmount hesitantly asked what those long, ruby-red stalks were and how to use them.

In some areas, rhubarb may be found only at farmers markets, and then for just a few weeks. At Aviator Park, four large stems (near 11/2 pounds) were $4 last week, and at Fairmount, $2.95 a pound. Of three supermarkets visited, only one had fresh rhubarb ($3.49 a pound at ShopRite).

Local strawberries, ripe and sweet, were $3.50 a pint last week at Aviator Park and, in much greater supply, $5 a quart Sunday at Headhouse. (You could have opted for ShopRite's 4-pounds-for-$5.99 deal on California berries last week, but they wouldn't taste the same.)

And Livengood Produce offered huge heads of organic butter lettuce, three to four times supermarket size, at $3.95 a head at the Fairmount market.

Ruth Linton toted two ice chests to Aviator Park from Highland Orchards in Wilmington - one filled with chicken and turkey parts, the other with steaks, sausage and bacon.

"It's all naturally raised on neighboring farms and processed fresh by a local butcher," Linton said.

The boneless, skinless chicken breasts were $5.50 a pound, compared with the Whole Foods price of $6.49 a pound for like product.

More growers are expanding their offerings in order to increase sales and maximize profits on the long trips to market.

In its second year, Fairmount has growers Dwain Livengood, Samuel Stoltzfus and Bill Weller, each offering a range of produce through the season. Along with organic produce, Livengood sells organic, grass-fed beef from his small herd - 4-ounce patties at $5.25 a pound to T-bone steaks at $16 a pound. Stoltzfus brings Pennsylvania Dutch baked goods along with his produce. In his first venture from upstate Bloomsburg into the Philadelphia market, Weller started with flower baskets and herbs in advance of crops to come, including much-anticipated peaches in July.

And Versailles Bakery, of Collingswood, offers prepared foods such as quiche and croissant-wrapped hot dogs that outshine any ordinary bun (a bargain at $1.75) at its outposts at the Headhouse and Fairmount markets, the New Hope market (Tuesday and Saturday), and the Collingswood market (Saturday).

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