3 dried chile peppers or 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon kosher salt

3 3/4 pounds collard greens (3 bunches), ribbed, washed, cut into 1-inch-wide strips

1. Cover bottom of an 8-quart stockpot on medium-high heat with the oil. Score the ham, set it in the pot when oil shimmers, and sear, rendering some fat, about 6 minutes.

2. Add water, chiles and salt; raise heat, bring to a boil.

3. Reduce to medium-low heat; simmer 30 minutes.

4. Add a few handfuls of collards, stirring to submerge until they turn bright green, 3 to 5 minutes. As they wilt and compact, add more handfuls, stirring until all greens are in the pot, 6 to 10 minutes. Turn heat to low; simmer very gently until dark green and tender, 1 hour.

5. With a slotted spoon, divide greens on plates. Serve, if desired, with a cruet of pepper vinegar.

Note: The brothers Lee use this slow-cooking method to bring out the dense, turniplike flavor of collards, but also recommend quicker cooking of thinly sliced greens in a skillet with bacon or ham, pepper flakes and broth, with apple cider vinegar and a little sugar. An acidic ingredient helps cut the bitterness and make greens more tender.

Per serving: 106 calories, 7 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram sugar, 4 grams fat, no cholesterol, 378 milligrams sodium, 10 grams dietary fiber.

Pasta With Chicken and Winter Greens

Makes 6 servings

1 pound (1 bunch) green Swiss chard

1/2 medium head radicchio