Among the various winter greens, Madison cites chard as her favorite.

"I'm partial to chard because it is more tender than kale and collards, yet unlike spinach has more volume," she explained. "It's also very good with legumes like lentils and in soup."

The cooking time for all these greens is really a matter of personal preference: a quick saute or a long, slow simmer for the most tender result.

One of her favorite uses, Braised Chard With Cilantro (recipe follows), is slow-cooked for about 45 minutes but yields a rich-flavored, pestolike sauce so concentrated that just a few tablespoons are enough to season starchy foods from mashed potatoes to lentils.

"The result is amazing. It's intense and delicious. Cooked on extremely low heat, it loses so much volume it's more like a condiment."

And the same method can be used with other greens.

"All greens are delicious mixed with something starchy - tossed with potatoes or rice, lentils or beans," she added.

Nutritionists recommend including five or more 1/2-cup servings of greens a week in a healthy diet. (Because of the Vitamin K in greens, patients taking the anticoagulant drug Coumadin should consult a doctor before increasing their intake of greens.)

While younger, smaller-leaf greens like arugula (spicy), baby chard (slightly sweet), and watercress (a mild hot mustard flavor) can be used raw in salads, winter greens are most often cooked.

But you needn't be limited to a single presentation. Instead, vary their use.

Serve warm wilted salads with sauteed greens.

Stuff larger leaves with mixtures of cooked rice or ground meat just as you might with leaves of cabbage. Blanch all but the most tender leaves first, then steam the stuffed rolls or bake them with a sauce.

Mix varied greens into your favorite spinach recipes.

Substitute darker greens in a familiar recipe, adjusting cooking and seasoning to offset flavor differences. For instance, wilt greens in cream and layer them with the cheese in lasagna.

Use sauteed and seasoned greens as a base for an entree in the same way you might use rice or noodles. You can add vitamins and flavor while cutting carbs.

Braised Chard With Cilantro

Makes 4 servings

2 pounds chard, leaves sliced into 1-inch-wide strips (2 large bunches)