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ED HILLE / Inquirer Staff Photographer
A for Amada, B for Basque . . . : Chef of the Year Jose Garces at Tinto, his lively wine bar with "pinxto" small plates of marvelous Basque tapas.
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The bells: One more time

What a fine dining year it's been: A maturing Philadelphia scene enjoys confident second restaurants, exciting neighborhood action, Belgian pubs, and more tasty surprises.

This longtime South Philly favorite has moved a few blocks south to a nicer space on reviving East Passyunk, but chef-owner Franca DiRenzo's deft and unpretentious cooking hasn't changed a bit. The homespun flavors at this pleasant Italian BYO are about the closest we get to being fed by an authentic nonna Molisana. Reviewed June 10.

Xochitl

408 S. Second St., 215-238-7280; www.xochitlphilly.com.

Former Vetri stalwart Dionicio Jimenez makes an impressive head-chef debut at this exciting Nuevo Mexicano in Headhouse Square. Some dishes are stunningly original, others need fine-tuning. But the evocative space, co-owned by Marigold's Steven Cook, has sophisticated service, an excellent tequila list, and mucho potential to become something special. Reviewed April 22.

Zento

138 Chestnut St., 215-925-9998; www.zentocontemporary.com.

Ex-Morimoto sushi man Gunawan Wibisono has opened an austerely white but charming little nook for sushi lovers in Old City that is a more ambitious counterpart to his popular Kami express near City Hall. It's still bare-bones, and the cooked menu needs refining, but Wibisono cuts some of the most satisfying (and well-priced) raw fish in town. Reviewed Feb. 11.

Zot

122 Lombard St., 267-639-3260; www.zotrestaurant.com.

Chef-owner Bernard Dehaene brings a taste of his native Brussels to Headhouse Square with this handsome new Belgian bistro, where you can choose from 30 kinds of mussels and a range of simply done meats with about 20 sauces. Service was a problem, and the big beer list is still growing, but Zot's food already sets the mood for a happy ale-soaked outing. Reviewed June 3.

HIT-OR-MISS

The Belgian Cafe

601 N. 21st St., 215-235-3500; www.thebelgiancafe.com.

The Monk's crew has opened a kindred bistro in beer-savvy Fairmount with 250 brews worthy of a Belgian drinker's admiration. The menu, though, is an unexpected disaster, from watery mussels to an odd fixation on vegan items that taste even worse than they sound. Stick with the burgers and beers. Reviewed Dec. 23.

Cebu

123 Chestnut St., 215-629-1100; www.cebuphiladelphia.com.

Owner Wilson Encarnacion has the right idea in refocusing his forgettable cocktail lounge, World Fusion, into a high-style restaurant that updates authentic Filipino flavors for the Old City mainstream. The clever ideas and good flavors, though, were too often wasted with poor execution that is unacceptable at these prices. Reviewed March 18.

City Grange

The Westin Philadelphia, Liberty Place,

99 S. 17th St., 215-563-1600.

The Westin jumps on the farm-to-table bandwagon with a remake of its Grill, touting local ingredients for updated comfort food for world-weary business travelers. Too many menu buzzwords and not enough consistent good cooking, though, make it feel like just another corporate hotel redo dressed up in the latest trends. Reviewed Dec. 9.

Cresheim Cottage

7402 Germantown Ave., Mount Airy, 215-248-4365; www.cresheimcottage.com.

The picturesque old stone house has gotten a nice dose of TLC from its current owner, Donna Fitzgerald Robb, a longtime former chef at the much-missed Judy's Cafe. The affordable menu gives appealing New American updates to Judy's older take on eclectic comforts, but too many slips in execution held it back from its potential. Reviewed May 16.

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