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Prime eating

A standing rib roast will get guests' attention - and applause - at a year-end dinner, as D.A. Lynne Abraham and other cooks well know.

Serves 4

1 1/2 pounds russet (baking) potatoes

1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Put a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees.

2. Peel the potatoes. Cut them into 1/16-inch-thick slices and transfer them to a large bowl of cold water, then drain and pat dry with paper towels.

3. Generously brush the bottom and sides of a 10-inch heavy ovenproof skillet, preferably nonstick, with some of the butter. Arrange potato slices in skillet, overlapping slightly, in layers, brushing each layer with some of the remaining butter and seasoning with salt and pepper. Cover the top with a buttered round of foil, buttered side down, and press down firmly on the potato cake. Bake for 30 minutes.

4. Remove the foil and bake the cake until the potatoes are tender and the top is golden, 25 to 30 minutes more. Slide the cake onto a cutting board and cut into wedges.

- From The Gourmet Cookbook (Houghton-Mifflin, 2004)

Note: You will need a mandoline or other adjustable-blade slicer, such as a Japanese Benriner, for this classic French dish. While some versions of these potatoes are cooked on the stovetop, this oven version is easier.

Per serving: 232 calories, 4 grams protein, 26 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams sugar, 12 grams fat, 32 milligrams cholesterol, 152 milligrams sodium, 3 grams

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