"I write MEAT IN [and the time on the note pad] and use the timer" to guard against overcooking the pricey main course, she says. This is especially important because Abraham refuses all help in the kitchen. She works "alone, can't stand help," she admits.

When the meat is ready and a beautiful mahogany color, she whisks it in to her guests for that long-awaited presentation, then scurries back into the kitchen to carve and plate it and its accompaniments.

She serves her masterpiece with a bold red wine, but she does not forget what is possibly the secret highlight of the meal: the roast's bones.

"As much as people love the meat, they love the bones even more. I serve them on the side so that people can snag one" and strip it clean, Abraham says.

Lynne Abraham's Standing Rib Roast

Makes 8 to 10 servings (figure on 2 servings per rib)

1 (4- to 5-rib) standing rib roast (see Note)

Salt and pepper to taste

1 to 2 cups beef broth or bouillon, preferably reduced sodium

1. Bring the roast to room temperature (about 1 hour).

2. Heat the oven to 500 degrees. Season the roast with salt and pepper, to taste. (For added seasoning, if you feel creative, mix 1 tablespoon finely ground peppercorns, 1 teaspoon ground bay leaf, 1 teaspoon white pepper, 1/4 cup flour and 1/2 stick softened unsalted butter to a paste and spread on the cut ends of the meat. Coat all you can but don't make yourself crazy trying to cover every spot.)

3. Put the roast fat side up, rib side down, on a rack in a pan large enough that all of the fat falls inside the pan. Roast for 30 minutes, reduce temperature to 350 degrees, and continue roasting until an instant-read digital meat thermometer inserted in the fleshy part of the meat reads 125 to 130 degrees for medium-rare, about 2 hours. (For medium, roast to 135 to 140 degrees.) Transfer the roast to a heated platter and let it rest for about 20 minutes. It will continue to cook on residual heat as it rests, raising the internal temperature 5 to 10 degrees. Resting also lets the juices redistribute within the meat.

4. Meanwhile, put the roasting pan with drippings on the stovetop on medium-high heat, add the beef broth, and scrape up the browned bits in the pan as the broth comes to a boil. Taste and adjust seasoning. Strain the jus through a fine sieve into a warm gravy boat.

5. Serve thick slices of meat on heated plates. (If you don't have a plate warmer, put dishes on top of the hot stove or run them under hot water. Warm plates not only keep the meat warm while serving, but also prevent the juices from congealing.) Garnish plates with watercress or parsley sprigs and serve.

Note: Ask the butcher to cut the back of the rib bone or chine, so you can cut the meat easily for serving. Serve the meat on the bone or cut the bones off the cooked roast and serve them separately.

Per serving (based on 10): 1,004 calories, 69 grams protein, no carbohydrates, no sugar, 78 grams fat, 223 milligrams cholesterol, 286 milligrams sodium, no dietary fiber.

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