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A cornucopia of cookbooks

There is plenty to please everyone, from strict vegans to omnivores.

(The art of the gratin, says Gagnaire, lies in gauging the dimensions of the dish and the thickness of the potato layer, which should never be more than 11/4 inches deep.)

And from the East

From the other side of the world, we found unexpectedly familiar, flavorful and simply prepared dishes filling the pages of Harumi's Japanese Home Cooking. The chicken recipe that follows is a nonthreatening introduction to Japanese fare.

With pork belly the trendy addition to restaurant menus in 2007, the recipe for Red-Cooked Pork in The Seventh Daughter by Cecilia Chiang drew our attention.

A specialty of the Shanghai region, this recipe from Chiang's mother is also a New Year's Eve favorite made with pork shoulder.

- Marilynn Marter


Chicken With Soy and Balsamic Dressing

Makes 4 servings

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon balsamic

vinegar

1 clove garlic, sliced thin

Coarsely ground black pepper

1 pound boneless chicken thighs with skin on

Sunflower or vegetable oil

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 to 3/4 cup coarsely chopped cabbage, to taste

Salt and pepper

Basil leaves for garnish, optional

1. In a bowl, combine the soy, vinegar, garlic and pepper.

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