I have to admit, the '60s-style stone fireplace in the old house that other reviewers always panned held a certain endearing Brady Family nostalgia for me. But, it was time to move on and even the Bradys grew up.

It's been a little more than three months since the boxes were unpacked and the doors opened. There are still unexpected adjustments, even when you are moving into new construction you planned yourself.

Notes Francesca Kauffman, "When you have to walk to the refrigerator instead of falling into it, it makes a big difference. So that was a surprise!"

Portions are ample at Tre Scalini, so be cautious ordering appetizers. Or, as Mom always said, "You'll spoil your appetite."

The apps can be ordered for the table to share. Three selections for a table of six will do.

We sampled the evening's special, Bruschetta Calamari with Cannellini Beans ($11.95). I was advised specials are on the menu so that the kitchen can try out new dishes and see how customers respond.

This dish is typical of the chef's home region of Molise, which is just below Abruzzi. Don't think hard crusty toast with a topping. In this version, the bread soaks in the warm juices of the calamari and the beans, creating a thick stew or soup.

Perfect for sharing, the Seafood Salad special ($10.95 depending on seafood selection) is a blend of scallops, shrimp, calamari and crabmeat that are lightly marinated in a tart dressing. Unlike many seafood salads that can sit too long in the dressing and toughen the seafood, each morsel is tender.

One of the signature house items is Grilled Polenta with Broccoli Rabe ($8.95). You'll like this, even if you don't like to eat your vegetables. Crispy thin, charred slices of polenta accent the soft, bitter greens. I could go for a little sluice of olive oil on the greens at the last minute, but the polenta is so perfect, I won't quibble.

Of the pasta dishes, only the gnocchi is made in-house.

Not to worry, though, the pasta supplier probably does a better job than an overworked kitchen could do.

We enjoyed the Ravioli con Carne di Granchio alla Crema ($19.95), a lobster- and cheese-filled ravioli with a tomato cream sauce dotted with jumbo lump crab. Personally, I find this a dish to be shared and it would be a bit much as an entire entree.

On the other hand, the Pasta Nera alla Pescareccia ($19.95), a mixture of black parpadelle noodles with prawns and crab meat in a tomato sauce, is a better balance of elements if you want pasta as an entree.

The Steamed Tilapia with Caper Butter special (fish is market price) was a simple, elegant dish and a nice contrast to the heavier offerings.

I looked forward to my leftovers the following day, however, my thieving pooch poached it for a true doggie bag. For what it's worth, the canine palate relished it as much as I did, leaving only a butter stain on the carpet.

We dined on a busy night and several menu items weren't available after we ordered them. Disappointing as that is, it afforded us an opportunity to try both the Filetto di Vitello ai Tre Funghi ($21.95), sauteed veal filets with a melange of mushrooms, and the Bistecca di Vitello ai Tre Funghi ($24.95), a 14-ounce veal chop that is char-grilled and served with the same mushrooms.

Both are enormous portions enriched by the almost meaty mushrooms. Fair warning, be clear with your server on what internal temperature you like your meat, or there will only be disappointment.

The desserts ($6) all come in from the outside. Nothing spectacular, but everything we sampled was good. Our table especially liked the Tartufo, a chocolate-covered ice cream confection, and the Tiramisu.

The lemon sorbet could have been thawed a bit more before service, although after a few glasses of wine, the inevitable game of hockey that ensued trying to scoop out the frozen concoction was mildly entertaining - as long as we kept the flying orb at our table.

If you enjoy a light, airy cheesecake, you won't be disappointed with this selection. As soon as summer is in full swing, Francesca Kauffman plans to put fresh fruit on the menu, which would really complement the hearty rustic fare.

Service can be hectic and if you are looking for a relaxed dining experience, avoid Saturdays and try for a Wednesday evening.

Although the new digs make it feel less like dining in someone's home and more like a typical restaurant, it is still the kind of South Philly neighborhood place where the owner's baby is passed from table to table among the regulars. And when things slow down, the Kauffmans will stop by to chat up the newcomers because underneath the "McMansion" newness, it remains a family neighborhood place. *