707 Restaurant & Bar

You can nibble fancy pigs in a blanket in the crushed-velvet booths at this highly styled restaurant-lounge near Washington Square. The appealing space feels like a less annoying, affordable take on an Old City hot spot, but the updated comfort foods rarely go beyond cutesy concepts to satisfying flavors. Hopefully, a new chef slated to begin in January will fulfill 707's real potential. Reviewed Sept. 9.

Warmdaddy's

The brothers Bynum, Benjamin and Robert, have moved their Old City blues club to a smaller but spiffier space near South Philly's riverfront. The colorful room offers improved sight lines, but the soul-food menu could use more gusto, consistency and ambition. Service also needs work. Reviewed March 11.

Craig LaBan

Best chef: Jose Garces.

Best restaurant: Osteria.

Best meal: A "farm table dinner" at Talula's Table.

Best ethnic delivery: Tiffin.

Best relocated classic: Fuji.

Best new BYOB: Blackfish.

Best single bite: 

"montadito" toast topped with duck confit wrapped in Serrano ham, crowned with a black cherry.

Best raw food: Scallop and watermelon seviche at Xochitl.

Best updated bubbe food: Veal kreplach with artichokes at Rae.

Best cheeseburger: The cheese-stuffed wonder at the Good Dog Bar.

- Craig LaBan