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Remember fondue? Those hot pots of melted cheese were so ubiquitous in '70s American culture that every newlywed couple opened at least one fondue pot among their wedding bounty. By the early '80s, the fad had faded, and most pots were stowed away. But a desire for simple home entertaining has led many of us to rediscover those pots from the past. No longer exotic, fondue now feels comforting and nostalgic, with added appeal as an easy-on-the-budget, festive food that's quite versatile.

RECIPES

Beef Bourguignon Fondue

2 slices local bacon

2 cloves garlic

2 shallots

1/2 cup good red wine

2 quarts rich homemade beef broth

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1/4 teaspoon fresh thyme

2 pounds thinly sliced raw filet of beef, beef tenderloin or flank steak

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This standby South Jersey BYO has been revived under its latest owner, Bill Fischer, a lifelong commercial fisherman and former longtime chef at Caffe Aldo Lamberti. Fischer's Italian-influenced seafood menu goes for well-wrought familiar flavors over flash, with good ingredients that generally merit the prices, which otherwise seem a shade high for the suburban setting. The menu is too large for its own good, and the friendly servers are inexperienced, but what this ambitious and pleasantly upscale space really needs (and deserves) is more customers.
Lunch Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday, 4-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 10 p.m. Closed Monday.
508 Hurffville-Cross Keys Rd., Sewell, NJ
856-589-6969
www.thepelicanrestaurant.com
RESTAURANTS & FOOD HEADLINES

I just got back from a long weekend in Philadelphia, and I didn't see a single nettle on the menu. It was a very enlightening trip. Traveling to other cities is one of the most important aspects of a critic's education. When we don't get out, it's easy to take for granted what we do well in the Bay Area, and not focus on the things we're missing.

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SINCE CONDE NAST ceased publishing Gourmet late last year, foodies have been on the hunt for substitutes to match their cooking styles and personalities. Perhaps you are among them, flipping through glossy after glossy, gazing at glam photos of roast chicken and chocolate tortes - or Paula Deen and Rachael Ray.
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This is the type of meal you can make without a trip to the supermarket if you keep canned beans (any type can be used), frozen shrimp, canned tomatoes, chicken broth and rice on hand. Soups are great family fare, but most take too long to cook for a mid-week meal. Adding shrimp and rice to hearty black-bean soup makes a welcoming meal in a bowl that takes only 20 minutes to make.
As South Philly's dynamic Asian community continues to diversify, its authentic restaurants have begun to spread their wings, too, beyond the usual neighborhood enclaves and the Washington Avenue corridor. The cheery new Kavei is a prime example.
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