Owners reflect on Medford's Indian Chief Tavern, closing after 33 years

The young waitress at the Jersey Shore was not expecting to hear from her best friend after he boarded a plane to Greece to commit to a prearranged marriage in his home country.

But there he was, this short-order cook, calling long-distance to say he had canceled the wedding. He had fallen in love with her at the diner where they both worked and during their strolls on the beach.

After a storybook start 40 years ago, George and Colleen Catanakis' life together developed into a tale of sweat and perseverance as they opened several South Jersey diners. They worked every day except Christmas.

On Tuesday, they will retire and close their last eatery, the Indian Chief Tavern & Restaurant in Medford. For 33 years, they operated the 360-seat dining spot off Route 70.

David and Renee Zallie, who own the adjacent ShopRite supermarket, are acquiring the property and its liquor license for an undisclosed price. The Zallies do not plan to open a new restaurant.

"Sad and happy" is how George Catanakis, 67, described his emotions Friday as he sat at a small wooden table in the tavern.

"I met a lot of people in this place," he said, smiling and gazing contentedly into the distance. "There were good times and bad times. But the times were good more than they were bad."

Catanakis, who immigrated to the United States at 23 and began work as a dishwasher, said he would miss his loyal customers and staff. But he said he was ready to move on.

"I did what I wanted in life, and money is not all," he said. "I think I owe it to my wife."

Colleen Catanakis, 62, was busy setting up tables in the warmly lit dining room and preparing for the lunch crowd. Wooden sculptures of Native Americans decorated the entrance.

"We haven't decided what we are going to do yet," she said. "I just want to wake up in the morning and drive down to the beach and walk on the beach with my husband."

After they met at the Country Squire Diner in Wall Township, they did that often, she said.

Later, they opened the Colonial Diner in Woodbury and the Esquire Diner in Vincentown. Both were sold.

At the Indian Chief, George Catanakis said he was known for his slow-cooked prime rib dinners, which sold for $15.95, and for his seafood platters.

"I did the cooking, the buying, determined the menus, and fixed anything that broke down," he said.

His wife said they might spend some of their retirement fixing neglected items in their house in Medford, which they have shared with three dogs and two birds after their four daughters grew up and moved out. The couple also raises chickens and tends to flower and vegetable gardens, as well as fig trees.

The Catanakises will set aside time to visit their daughters, who live around the country, and their three grandchildren.

Daughter Kat Catanakis recalled growing up in the restaurant and watching her parents work hard.

"I will miss seeing my dad working in the kitchen like an artist with a palette and talking and moving around so fast," she said. But she is glad they are making time to enjoy life.

Eleanor O'Brien came into the restaurant and approached Colleen Catanakis, arms open, ready to hug her, and asked, loudly, "How dare you?" She said she had heard about the closing and was sad to lose a favorite restaurant. She embraced Catanakis warmly and wished her the best.

"We would come two or three times a month," said O'Brien, 83, tearing up. "We just felt at ease here. [My husband] Joseph said we're coming tomorrow night, and he already knows what he's having: prime rib."

Colleen Catanakis began to cry softly. "There's a whole lot of love in here," she said, mentioning their loyal clientele and dozen employees, many of whom became like family. "But there are also a lot of things we have to do," she insisted. Her husband's eyes became moist.

What about Thanksgiving? George Catanakis said the family might go visit his wife's relatives in Pennsylvania Dutch country. "They're good cooks," he said.

Or "we might just stay home and make a Greek salad," his wife suggested. "We just haven't decided."