Tre Scalini

Not much changes at this longtime favorite Italian BYOB, now in its second location at the southern end of East Passyunk.

But that's a good thing, with chef-owner Franca DiRenzo still in the kitchen, turning out the unpretentious home cooking of a nonna Molisana.

The house tonnarelli, toothsome square-cut strands hand-pressed through the wires of a chitarra, is still among my favorite simple pastas. The fettuccine with porcinis, black pappardelle with seafood, spaghetti with cockles, grilled polenta with broccoli rabe, veal specialties, and saffron gnocchi are also reliable hits.

Reviewed June 2007

Revisited March 2015