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ITV

Bartender Gabe Fellus and manager Jordan Stalsworth behind the bar at ITV, 1615 E. Passyunk Ave.
Bartender Gabe Fellus and manager Jordan Stalsworth behind the bar at ITV, 1615 E. Passyunk Ave.Read moreMICHAEL KLEIN / Staff

Top Chef winner Nicholas Elmi's casual but still polished and similarly intimate bar right next door is called ITV - as in "In the Valley," a translation of "Passyunk," a Lenape Indian word.

The lights are low at this snug, dimly lit cocktail/wine bar, whose French-inspired American menu is mostly flavor-forward appetizers and smaller plates.

Old World-style biodynamic wines predominate on the 40-or-so-bottle list, and the beer list has a few surprises.