While hotel restaurants struggle for relevance, the Loews has delivered a thorough revamp of forgettable SoleFood into a smart American brasserie that hits all the right notes. From the extensive bourbon program to the casually styled leather decor, professional service, and a menu of American classics refined with spot-on technique and seasonality by veteran Tom Harkins, this is a venue with mass appeal (and great steaks) that's already popular with conventioneers - but deserves more local attention.
A massive American whiskey list showcases a wide range of standards and rarities, though value pours under $15 are rare (try George Dickel from Tennessee.) The whiskey flights, house-aged white whiskies (get the Hudson), and cocktails are worthwhile, creative and well-crafted, if not always generous. There is a medium-size wine list with a focus on familiar New World brands that offer quality (Eroica, Cambria, Selyem, Goldeneye, Mer Soleil) though with usual high hotel markups.
A substantial bar presence can amp up to a noisy 92 decibels, but generally ranges in the still-talkable mid-80s. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Breakfast daily, 6 a.m.-11:30 a.m. Lunch daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner nightly, 5:30-10 p.m. Bar menu nightly, until midnight.