'Philadelphia in Style' exhibit shines light on city's fashion heyday

For most of the 20th century, Philadelphia was at its high-style zenith. Department stores like Wanamakers, Bonwit Teller, and Nan Duskin sold dresses copied straight from Paris runways. Albert Nipon was on the cusp of building a $60 million fashion empire on the strength of his signature collared day frock.And the city's social circles were teeming with women like 98-pound Julia Rush Biddle, who in 1964 was inducted into Vanity Fair's International Best-Dressed Hall of Fame. (Biddle was married to T. Charlton Henry, for whom Henry Avenue was named.)It was, by all accounts, a beautiful time in our city's women's wear history, especially now that we're buried by big-box outlet stores that overflow with cheap clothing made in China. And ladies who lunch are seemingly more comfortable in neoprene slacks than Chanel suits. Those yearning for a peek into the City of Brotherly Love's unsung sartorially splendid past should make their way to the James A. Michener Art Museum in Doylestown.There, 34 garments made, sold, or worn by Philadelphians between 1896 and 1993 are on display as part of "Philadelphia in Style: A Century of Fashion from the Robert and Penny Fox Historic Costume Collection at Drexel University."The showcase on display through June 26 is a well-thought-out retrospective of what many see as the country's golden age of style. But it's all through a Philadelphia lens. Even just a glimpse of the sparkling accessories, photographs, and fashion illustrations - all of which permanently reside in Drexel University's vast 14,000-piece costume collection - is worth the trip to Bucks County. For example, a rose-pink silk satin evening dress with larger-than-life rosettes embroidered into the skirt - a 1916 creation by French fashion house Callot Soeurs - glistens like a ruby under the hot lights. This particular gem belonged to Amanda "Minnie" Drexel Fell Cassat, the well-heeled granddaughter of Drexel University's founder, A.J. Drexel. "Philadelphia is often overlooked because we are in the shadow of New York," said Michener chief curator Kirsten Jensen, who co-curated the exhibition with the keeper of Drexel's historic apparel, Clare Sauro. "It reflects the style, sophistication, glamour, elegance, and shopping customs of Philadelphia ladies throughout the past century." Like most well-done historical fashion exhibitions, "Philadelphia in Style" is an overview of the century's fashion trends: corseted day dresses of the 1890s give way to drop-waist flapper styles of the 1920s.The 1930s and early '40s feature clavicle-baring sheaths with the sveltest of A-line silhouettes. This grouping includes an ivory wedding gown with a delicate lace bodice that was donated with its original veil and Bonwit Teller boxes and wrapping."The original label is glued into the box because the dress itself is so filmy," Sauro said. "Can you imagine how happy we were to get all of that together?"Skirt suits courtesy of Christian Dior and Mainbocher are representative of the 1940s. Pastel ball gowns like the Pierre Balmain silk jersey is a 1950s hallmark. Wool jersey cocktail dresses, a Halston shirtdress, and a Nipon day dress embody the '60s, '70s, and '80s, respectively. And a 1993 Mary McFadden evening gown donated by Bonnie B. Freundlich, wife of one of the owners of Rittenhouse Square specialty shop Nan Duskin in its later years, closes out the exhibition. (Nan Duskin permanently closed the next year.)"It was the end of an era," said Sauro. "We thought it was a perfect note to finish on.""Philadelphia in Style" is a look at how Philadelphia did its fashion business - on sales floors and at afternoon teas. Photographs of department stores and old newspaper articles line the walls. A silent film of a 1917 Marks Bros. fashion show introducing the early flapper plays on an endless loop.During the 1930s through the 1960s, the most-affluent women set the fashion trends, and their loyalty to department stores and specialty shops helped create the American fashion landscape.That was most apparent at Nan Duskin. The 5,000-square-foot "Philadelphia in Style" exhibition starts with 21 mint-condition sketches of tailored skirt suits - some accessorized with stoles, and all with pillbox hats - that were available in 1954 at Nan Duskin.At the time, it was customary for stores' in-house designers - Nan Duskin had three - to copy styles right from Paris runways. The sketches served as look books so wealthy women could recreate their own custom looks.Thanks to women like owner Nan Duskin Lincoln, however, people started to believe great fashion could be conceived in America. Lincoln used the money she made selling Paris looks and copies in Philadelphia to support the careers of new designers, such as Gilbert Adrian and Philadelphian James Galanos, both of whom became cornerstones in the American fashion movement. A 1944 wool Adrian original suit and full-length Galanos evening gown, donated by the estate of Main Line socialite and artist Kathleen P. Field, are on display, as well. "Nan Duskin's was one of the handful of establishments in the country known for having the very, very best of high fashion," Sauro said. "So her support launched careers and helped establish American fashion as legitimate."ewellington@phillynews.com215-854-2704@ewellingtonphlEXHIBITION