With delicate embellishments, the return of sleeves and a variety to textures, this season's bridal gowns are exhibiting character and charm for an unforgettable wedding-day look. Designers are adding the novel touches in understated ways with a scalloped neckline here or a pleated skirt there to create a sense of drama and excitement without churning out a frock that overwhelms the senses.

"Brides [aren't afraid of] a little more risk-taking in their styles, looking into things that are a little more nontraditional and avant-garde but still pretty," says Elizabeth Fillmore, designer of the eponymous couture line sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. "We create a dreamy surreal feeling and aura about the gowns with floaty texture, but that is still feminine and flattering to a bride's figure."

Providing restrained but exciting bridalwear is a subtle balance struck by designers in creating their wearable works of art, including Edric Woo, the designer behind Tara Keely gowns. He's detailed a bustline with scalloped lace to soften the neckline. He's covered the double-thin straps of his silk satin modified A-line gown with lace. And, he's added a rhinestone broach tied with a black ribbon at the curve of a waistline.

"I like to create focal points," Woo says.

The romance of lace continues to allure as an embellishment, perhaps influenced by recent high-profile weddings. President Bush's daughter, Jenna, wore an Oscar de le Renta gown covered in lace at her May nuptials to Henry Hager. Ashlee Simpson wore a lace gown crafted by Monique Lhuillier when she married rocker Pete Wentz in May.
Designers are using it to add glamour in surprising ways. At Jim Hjelm Bridal, designer Francesca Pitera incorporates lace throughout the bodice, as a sheer covering over shoulders, and as an accent on skirts, such as layers of organza fading into lace. Alfred Angelo is using lace "to reflect the light and airy qualities many brides have been seeking recently, and as a means of providing depth to our gowns without adding weight," according to Michael Shettel, Alfred Angelo's vice president of design.

Strapless dresses are still the No. 1 choice for brides, but that's not stopping designers from changing up necklines and bringing back a little shoulder coverage, creating a new opportunity for embellishments. Beaded, sequined or rhinestone-encrusted straps are very "of the moment," Shettel says. "[They] add a very chic and glamorous touch to a gown and really amp up the wow factor, but also act as another means of jewelry for the bride so, if she wants, can focus on wearing a fabulous pair of earrings and not a traditional 'suite.'"

Strap choices seem endless. Elizabeth Fillmore has created draped necklines with wide straps for vintage appeal, sweetheart necklines with spaghetti straps and metallic halter necklines. Other designers are playing with back straps, such as Watters & Watters' frost brocade dress with a lace-up back and Monique Lhuillier's low-back trumpet dress.
"Anything we can do to venture away from strapless is the goal," says Victoria McMillan, designer for Alvina Valenta Bridal and Bridesmaid Collections. "How it will do sales-wise, we'll see. But it's refreshing for the store owners to show something fresh and round out the mix."

Texture drama is playing out differently for designers. Many are achieving the effect by employing non-traditional fabrics, such as Monique Lhuillier's gazar gown in pistachio that's got a weave similar to burlap for surface interest or Woo's silk satin duchess trumpet style that radiates sheen.

Layering and mixing fabrics also gives dimension to the dresses. Lazaro's finale in his fall presentation offered a beaded organza dress, with tulle shredded like ruffles at the bottom for a red carpet entrance. Lela Rose is offering tiered looks to add wattage to her collection, working with natural materials in matte finishes. Watters & Watters showcases lace in a different direction by offering a silk satin gown with Alencon lace running vertically down it.

Treatments abound in giving gowns more flare, such as the corded lace and pin-tucked crinkle silk chiffon effects at Lela Rose. Angel Sanchez is using hand-cut tulle as embroidery for his gowns for an "ethereal, feminine" quality. Embroidered tulle is a popular technique for adding subtle color to a gown. Lazaro's silk satin dress is layered with embroidered tulle and three-dimensional flowers.

Treatments can serve a dual purpose: both a fashion and functional need. Pleating and appliqués can play down a bustline and draping can give the illusion of a slimmer figure, says McMillan. Oscar de la Renta's white silk faille strapless gown with a razmir bow nicely frames the bust and Alvina Valenta's silk satin organza gown with a draped bodice narrows the waistline.

To make the texturing work, designers are sticking to slimmer silhouettes, including mermaid, trumpet and sheath styles, and lighter fabrics, such as airy chiffons, silks and organzas, that flow with the bride. Less is more say designers, which means fewer ballgowns out there.

"When you use something that's busy or has a pattern or a personality, you need to use it on a simple silhouette," says Maria Prince, vice president of Dallas-based Watters & Watters.

The new looks are resonating with retailers, who are appreciating the subtle details.

"We're seeing lots of puckering, different seaming in dresses and layering, all of which provide an element of surprise yet look really sophisticated," says Marlis Fyke, owner of The White Dress boutique in Corona del Mar, Calif., which carries Carolina Herrera, Amy Michelson, Vera Wang and Rosa Clara.

Hello, Hats

The personalization of weddings continues as brides revisit headgear from the past. Once upon a time (say, four decades back), brides were apt to wear hats on their wedding day, in step with the tradition of hat-wearing at the time. The veil curried favor for the rest of the 20th-century, and now the pendulum may be swinging back. Fall 2008 Bridal Week in New York showcased many a chapeau, including top hats and glamorous pill boxes, from designers such as Carolina Herrera and Oscar de le Renta.

The veil alternative suits a confident, style-savvy bride. Some timeless looks brides can select are a wide-brimmed picture hat for those garden weddings, a pillbox with bits of veil paired with a sleek sheath and even a top hat for the intrepid bride.

For now, hats maybe a coastal preference, say retail owners. "It's not for your typical bride on the West Coast," says Marlis Fyke, owner of The White Dress boutique in Corona del Mar, Calif. "I think the hats are gorgeous and avant-garde. But I think they exude a formality you'll see on the East Coast."