Good Taste: Sikora is a favorite in Wilmington

It's been a couple years since Bryan Sikora, of Django and Talula's fame, landed in Wilmington with La Fia, his Mediterranean-accented bistro and market.

And Delaware has fast become a welcoming home, if expansion plans are a sign.

Sikora is set to open a Mexican concept, Cocina Lolo, a block away on King Street in May, followed by Market Street Bagel and Bread (across from the Grand Opera House), then a cocktail bar with a smoker-centric menu and live music across from La Fia by midsummer.

After a stellar recent lunch at La Fia, I can understand why the locals are enthused. Sikora's crew brings the same handcrafted seasonal approach that won him fans in Philly, from a house-made gyro wrapped in tender flatbread, to a hearty veal Bolognese with brussels sprouts over fresh pappardelle, and a magnetic smoked beef banh mi on a charred baguette.

My favorite, though, was a gorgeous hunk of line-caught swordfish (a fish making its comeback), tossed with fingerlings in a piquant niçoise tumble of capers, olives and tomatoes in a winey, herb-blasted broth. At just $16, it was an impressive value for high-quality ingredients cooked with personality and finesse.

- Craig LaBan
 
Swordfish niçoise lunch, $16, La Fia, 421 N. Market St., Wilmington, 302-543-5574; lafiawilmington.com