Continuing our efforts to get this region and our homes ready for winter, this week's tips will focus on rearranging the tons of snow that some weather forecasters predict this year.

I say rearranging, because it will all melt, even if the process takes a couple of weeks, and the goal of any homeowner should be to get as much snow as possible out of harm's way.

In 1996, we had a 36-inch snowfall on Jan. 7 and 8. I bought a snow thrower in December 1996 in preparation for another horrific snowstorm.

That came on Dec. 31, 2000, four years later, but I was ready.

I still have the snow thrower, but prefer the shovel, even with a driveway five car-lengths long - acquired five years after the snow thrower.

Although I prefer shovels, you may not. You need to take some of the same precautions in both cases, the most important being to dress properly for the weather.

I talked to a few local dealers and checked out the Web sites of the major manufacturers to come up with the following advice. I recommend that you use this Cheat Sheet as a start in your search for the right snow thrower for your particular needs.

Need to know: Most electric-powered snow throwers don't have the oomph to shift great quantities of snow, though they are more environmentally friendly than gasoline-powered machines. Going electric is an option if you live in a South Philadelphia rowhouse with a small sidewalk and an alley, have a protected cord that is long enough, and have a ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet into which you can plug it.

Gas-engine snow throwers come in three varieties: small, single-stage models, under 5 horsepower; medium, two-stage throwers with 5 to 7 h.p.; and large, two-stage throwers that are more than 8 h.p. There are electric single-stage throwers as well.

Operating manual: Single-stage throwers use a high-speed auger assembly made of a combination of metal and plastic or hard rubber. The auger spins at high speed to chip ice and snow, collect it, and direct it out a discharge chute. The machine is self-propelling to a degree, but you still have to guide the blower along.

In two-stage throwers, the auger breaks up the snow, then feeds it into a high-speed impeller that throws it out of the chute. Two-stage throwers are wheel-propelled, meaning that if the auger gets clogged with snow, the machine will continue to move forward without your having to stop, shut it off, wait a few minutes, clean the auger, restart, and get moving again. Some two-stage throwers let you apply power to each wheel independently to aid turning; others require you to turn the thrower manually.

In this area, an auger-driven thrower is fine; it can clear paths 11 to 24 inches wide. Heavier snowfalls will take a bit more effort, and several passes.

Be sure to ask: How far does the thrower throw the snow? Many models have multidirectional discharge chutes that can be aimed while the thrower is in use. These models typically have wheels and can throw snow 25 to 35 feet.

Don't do this: Don't buy too big - keep in mind both the weight of the machine and its maneuverability. The big ones can clean paths as wide as 31 inches, but if you can't handle one, you might throw your back out as easily with a snow thrower as with a snow shovel. Single-stage, gasoline-powered models are good for sidewalks and small driveways. Driveways that are two car widths or wider and four cars long need a two-stage machine, which also can handle snow depths exceeding six inches.

What it will cost: Gasoline-powered snow throwers go for $150 to $1,200. Electric models cost $100 or so.

Good advice: If you already own a thrower, start it well in advance of the first snowfall to make sure it works properly. If you do it now, you'll have enough time to have it repaired before winter.

An ounce of prevention: Each year, thousands of people are injured because they handle snow throwers improperly. Never put your hand down the chute or around the blades. Turn the machine off, then use a stick or broom handle to clear a clog.