One of the most popular snacks at the new Cheu Fishtown, the just-opened northern outpost of Cheu Noodle Bar's 10th Street location, is the corn Rangoon, a summery twist on the traditional Chinese American dumpling.

Instead of crab meat and cream cheese, Cheu's Rangoon has the sweet and salty crunch of seasonal corn, cut with smooth goat cheese and a touch of spice.

"Whenever the corn gets good, we try to add it to the menu," said Cheu co-owner Ben Puchowitz.

The corn is sauteed with ginger and garlic, then added to the goat cheese and a hint of pickled jalapeño and cayenne pepper. It's then wrapped in wheat-flour dough, pinched closed, and tossed in the deep fryer. There, the cheese gets so soft it almost liquefies, making for a hot, melty bite inside the dumpling shell.

The Rangoon, also available at the original Cheu location, is served with a light, sweet-savory dipping sauce made from vinegar, sugar, red miso paste, soy sauce, and a hint of chili flakes.

— Allison Steele

Corn Rangoon, $7 for four, Cheu Fishtown, 1416 Frankford Ave. and Cheu Noodle Bar, 255 S. 10th St.; or