Rae upgraded to 3 bells

Cira Centre, 2929 Arch St., 215-922-3839; www.raerestaurant.com.

REVISITED: Chef Daniel Stern's latest venture is a contemporary American brasserie in the Cira Centre lobby. The creative menu ranges from updated bar food (rabbit nachos and truffled pizzas) to haute foie gras tastings, but was initially too wide-ranging and overwrought for its own good.

A recent revisit, though, was spectacular, showing plates with a lighter touch and more elegance, from an incredibly complex but tasty turbot stew to witty updates of Jewish soul food like mini-Reubens and veal kreplach with artichokes. The modern space may be austere for some, but the service is impressive, and so is the wine cellar. With the kitchen now locked in, Rae is finally becoming the powerhouse destination it was meant to be. Reviewed April 1; revisited late November.