618 Collings Ave.
Collingswood , NJ 08108
Parking: Lot in rear; street parking.
Handicap access: Not technically wheelchair accessible (there are two steps at entrance, but restaurant can make accommodations with advance notice. Bathroom is accessible).
Related reviews: Zeppoli
Cuisine type: Italian
Meals Served: Dinner
Style: Joey Baldino's exciting debut as a chef-owner takes Collingswood's already-crowded Italian scene up a notch, with a heartfelt ode to authentic Sicilian flavors informed by the finesse of his pedigree (Vetri, Osteria, Amada) and the soul of his South Philly upbringing. A supersonic noise problem, though, drowns out the intimate pleasure of this tiny trattoria, and remains the only obstacle to a third bell.
Specialties: Antipasto Siciliano; house fennel sausage; shrimp and white beans; tagliatelle al limone; rigatoni alla disgraziata; pesto Trapanese; Sicilian fisherman stew; rabbit pizzaiola; milk-stewed goat (special); whole orata (special); zeppole; house gelati and sorbetti (pistachio, torrone, prickly pear).
Alcohol: BYOB. Think Italian, but especially Southern Italian, focusing on wines from Sicily or Campania. Deep reds (like Nero d'Avola) or exotic whites (like Inzolia, Malvasia di Lipari, or anything from Sicily's star winery, Planeta) is perfect for Zeppoli's cuisine.
Weekend noise: A head-splitting roar of 98 to 102 decibels is this potentially cozy trattoria's greatest flaw, and needs to be addressed. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Hours: Dinner Wednesday through Monday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.