Will BYOB
Christopher Kearse's artful contemporary French cooking at Will BYOB has shed an early tendency toward too many avant-garde flourishes in favor of a sharper focus and harmonious plates.
/arc-anglerfish-arc2-prod-pmn.s3.amazonaws.com/public/SHM4KRZ3WNCSTJGWNHP6NA6VRI.jpg)
Christopher Kearse's artful contemporary French cooking at Will BYOB has shed an early tendency toward too many avant-garde flourishes in favor of a sharper focus and harmonious plates.
The presentations are still gorgeous, but each intricate touch amplifies the theme, from a foie gras-enriched rabbit rillettes with figs, to citrus-caramelized Belgian endive and licorice that called out Sichuan spice on the duck, or a whole maitake scented with sumac and rose hips, Madeira caramel, and smoked ricotta.
Will can still soften its bare-bones ambience, but has nonetheless risen to elite status as one of the city's best BYOBs and modernist kitchens.