Our most underrated restaurant couple - Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby - have taken a big step into the spotlight with their move from Horizons to a stunning home in the old Deux Cheminees, a grand manse that's been revamped with modern style and a palpable vitality. Landau's unique vegan cuisine continues to evolve, with small plates that have increasingly left his seitan roots behind in favor of one of the most sophisticated examples of pure veg-craft anywhere. With the sharp setting, polished service, and serious wines, this is one venture that transcends its niche, and has become a Philly star of national note.
A substantial list of about 100 labels, with 12 by the glass, focusing on natural wines with refreshingly affordable $25 mark-ups on all bottles. List is full of both quality (Hobbs Crossbarn; Tondonia Riserva 1991 viura/malvasia) and quirks (Cuvée Mysterieuse; German sylvaner; numerous Madeiras) that show a deliberate aesthetic at work. Cocktails with house-made bitters and good spirits are fun. The craft beer list is concise, but well-chosen.
Ambient noise can buzz up to 88 decibels, but comfortable table spacing allows for pockets of conversation. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Dinner Monday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, until 11 p.m.