This French-inspired Bella Vista restaurant-bar, from father-daughter team Chloe and Bernard Grigri, captures an appealing energy in its makeover of the old Chick's, from the Provencal-colored pressed tin ceiling to the affordable all-French wine list and chef Paul Lyons' sprawling bistro menu. Enthusiasm for scratch charcuterie, seasonality, and personal twists on classics keep plates fresh - but too many offerings also test the kitchen's consistency, which could be improved.
Socca; meat board; cheese board; French onion soup; spicy octopus; Brussels sprouts; eggplant three ways; brandade; artichoke barigoule; fava bean tartine; Morteau sausage; duck confit; steak-frites; Cornish game hen with saffron broth; monkfish skewers; trout amandine; bread pudding; chocolate pot de crème with hazelnut brittle.
A small but well-chosen list of affordable French wines, almost all less than $50 a bottle, perfectly suit the bistro fare, including good examples of Cahors, Chinon, Saumur, Muscadet, and Languedoc (both Picpoul de Pinet for white and Flaugergues for red) that offer great quality for the price. Pitchers of house wine go for $20 to $30. There are a handful of good craft beers on tap (Bullfrog, Weyerbacher), but the classic cocktails were inconsistent, as some were off-balance.
Tightly packed crowd makes a noisy 92 decibels even louder. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)
Dinner nightly, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Brunch Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. (with a la carte menu available between 3 and 5 p.m.)